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1978 TA decals

Rick, In 1978 (specifically the late run of 78, fisher ttops), did they ever use any font other than “German” with an SE stripe package?

Restoring a 78 W72, WS6, 4-speed, Fisher T-tops. Doing black, but love the extra striping of the SE’s, just not real fond of the German font.

Thanks, Jim

The letteting changed in General in 78 , but not on SE , you could use 79 SE lettering , Rick

6 months ago

1969 firebird

hi,
it is very difficult to get information about how many firebirds were producted 1969 in antwerpen ( gm continental ). i am interested in anything about the 69 250cui ohc sprint version.
best regards from germany

I understand , Best person to get any info on that is Jim Matison , Pontiac Historical Services , Best of Luck

6 months ago
A12 Obsessed General 1969-1970 Plymouth

69 RR Fiberglass Lift Off Hood

How can I fix a small scratch on the top of my fiberglass lift off hood? Its a repro and its black. Thanks

Peter-

Because the paint is Organisol, there’s no simple touch-up procedure, other than an artist’s brush attempt with a steady hand, blending is not possible. Failing that, it must be completely refinished.

Rick

6 months ago

Most popular floor mats in 1970 th for B bodies ?

What were the most common material for OEM car floor mats for e.g. a 1973 Dodge Charger after the moment the car was delivered brand new from the dealer to the US customer? carpet or rubber in America ?
In germany I have the Impression it was rubber, so I assume it was the same in US, right?

Chris-

They were, indeed, rubber, fairly simple and not especially well-fitting. They were not molded or contoured like today’s better mats.

Rick

6 months ago
A12 Obsessed General 1966-1972 Plymouth

69’ RR A12 tribute – motor mounts

The 440 Six pack motor in my car jumps to the passenger side about 1 1/2" when i punch it. Is this normal? I have gotten so many opinions. Right now it looks like its metal to metal where the motor mounts go. Does it need motor mounts, if yes, what? Hard to believe that the previous owner who built the car would just overlook that? Might be hard to answer without seeing the car, but any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Peter-

Sure sounds like a shot mount! Stock, there was a “roll restraint cable” that prevented the engine from torquing that high if the mount failed.

The made in India part-store mounts fail almost instantly. I have sourced some decent ones:

http://tinyurl.com/ricksmounts

Rick

6 months ago

Mystery Plymouth

BCHS is primarily a GM engine speed shop. A customer has blessed us with work on a 1974 Plymouth which appears to be a Duster but has no conclusive model identification. The nameplate on the front fenders contains the words “Commando -V8” but online research suggests Commando was never a Plymouth model name, but an engine type used in Barracudas, which this car is almost certainly not. As the car was purchased as a used dragster and is titled in VA which does not include model names on title/registration paperwork, the customer has not been able to identify the model, and we having some difficulty sourcing some parts we need without conclusively identifying the model. We are hoping you can pin this down for us as the customer has other performance cars which are more in our bailywick and we would like to retain his business. I do have a pic but the Attach Photo function on your website seems not to want to upload it – if you have a direct email, I will send it Thanks! Ed Nace.

Ed-

It is a Plymouth Scamp, which was a mundane grocery getter. 111” WB, basically Plymouth-badged Dart Swinger, which is in the Chrysler A-body category. Largest engine was 318 2-Bbl.

“Commando” was the name attached to any Plymouth performance engine from approx. 1965 thru 1971.

Rick

6 months ago
Needabiggergarage. General 1966-1978 Chrysler

Placement of O2 sensor bung in stock 440 Manifold

Rick,
I want to keep my stock Chrysler 440 exhaust manifolds, and I want to utilize an AFR gauge (obviously with an O2 sensor). Where would be the best location for the O2 bung? Before, or after, the exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe connection? Distance (inches) from the connection?

Thanks
Rick D.

Rick-

Unless you want to attempt drilling and tapping an 18mm hole in the manifold, it definitely has to be in the pipe. The closer to the manifold you get it, the better it will work on cold starts, but some guys forego that and put it in the “Y” or “X” (crossover) to get a more accurate average of both banks. Personally, I haven’t found that it makes a whole lot of difference.

Rick

6 months ago
Howlin My Car 1966-1966 Dodge - Coronet

66 Coronet Convertible

Hi, I have a original 63,000 mile 66 Coronet 500 Convertible and I would like to purchase wider steel wheels that will take my factory hubcaps to maintain the stock look. What size/offset can I fit front and back? and where can I get them from?
Also – under the paint code on my tag is 999, what does this mean?

Thanks.

Grant-

If it is original, it could NOT have hubcaps! See pix…all ’66 Coronet 500s had full wheel covers on 14" steel wheels.

While 8" wide wheels would clear easily in the front, out back, anything over 7" gets very tight. No matter which width you wind up with, the offset should be near zero.

Most guys throw in the towel and opt for larger diameter wheels due to the poor selection of 14" tires. If you want to keep it a pure resto, with repro tires, though, that’s cool. You might also find some 15" Dodge C-body wheel covers that at least look “period correct”.

Remember, too, that spirited driving and wheel covers don’t mix. Zero brake cooling, and loss of covers due to wheel flex. Just sayin’….

Paint code 999 = special order. Basically, anything the buyer wanted!

Rick

6 months ago

Looking For Authentic Reproduction Battery Tray

Richard:

For the few 1967 Dodge Dart GTS models produced in 1967 (V8/383/A-Body), is it safe to assume that the stock battery tray is the same size (4×10×14), as that installed in the 270 and GT models? I am trying to authenticate that component as a part of my restoration. Many Thanks for your input ………. Dennis

Common sense would tell me you are correct, Rick McLaughlin

7 months ago
Dodge Boyz General 1968-1968

Real Coronet RT or fake?

I’m looking at buying a 68 Dodge Coronet RT that I found online. Before I visit the seller I’d like to know if there are any other stamped numbers on the car somewhere that would ID it as a real RT besides the dash VIN code. Or should I trust that the dash with VIN is the original dash for that car? Another question would be the front bench seat: I read that all RTs came with bucket seats? Thanks!

John-

1968 Was a transition year for VIN stampings. This was the first year that the VIN was required to be stamped on the engine block, transmission, and rear axle. The data plate (“fender tag” would show the full VIN and the Sales Order number, the second number, would be stamped in at least 2 places, the most visible would be the driver’s side of the radiator yoke.

The R/T VIN must start with “WS23” for a hardtop or WS27 for a rag.

The engine, besides showing the VIN, must be a correctly dated and trimmed 426 Hemi or 440 (depending on VIN)

All had buckets with welded reinforcements for the 4 inner holes (under the carpet. Console or center seat was optional.

RIck

PS-

Check my eBay deals at moparaction.net

7 months ago

69 Goat Rear End

I have a 69 with a 4bbl 350 horse, hideaways, power windows, but otherwise very plain Jane. It’s quite low geared I don’t have a tach, but the fastest I can comfortably cruise at is about 70mph and it’s revving pretty high three grand plus. Would you guess it has a 3.55 or 3.90 rear? Just looking for an opinion. I will have to get it up on a lift in the spring to look for codes. Thanks. Dean Kamloops BC. ps that’s my then 10 year old boy diggin it.

3.90. Cool Car , Thanks , Rick

7 months ago
Sixpak Garage General 1964-1980 Dodge

833 4-speed backup light doesn’t work

I Have a 1970 Dodge Challenger TA that has a backup light that won’t come on unless I hold the shift handle forward with a little pressure on it. If I disconnect the reverse linkage rod when it is in reverse, it works only if I pull back on the linkage lever about an 1/8 of an inch or so. I I have tried the o-ring style switch and the original style gasket switch. Just seems like the switch does not go into transmission far enough for the lever to activate the switch. What do you recommend. Thanks, Glenn kempf Ferdinand, IN

Glenn-

Remove the side cover and have a peek, it should be obvious. I suspect a broken or loose weld holding the inner lever the the lever shaft.

Rick

8 months ago
A12 Obsessed General 1968-1970 Plymouth - Road Runner

Vinyl Top

Im looking at a 69.5’ RR A12 and it has a vinyl top that was ADDED. Can the vinyl top be removed fairly easily? What will the paint look like underneath? Is it going to be a total repaint required?

Peter-

The cover will peel off fairly easily and probably in one piece. Then the fun starts, especially as we have no idea what type of paint is beneath it (original?) and what type of adhesive was used. You may be able to find a solvent that will remove the glue residue without affecting the paint, but, overall, I’d be planning on a repaint (of the roof) and blending into the quarters (at a minimum).

If it was a duplicate of the factory installation, you’ll also be looking at molding-clip-hole patching (unless you go for a 2-tone paint job), and obtaining a set of non-vinyl drip rail moldings.

The vinyl roof covers trapped moisture, finding some rust underneath it is also quite possible.

Rick

8 months ago
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