How many 1969 Dodge Coronet R/T’s were produced with factory A/C
How many 1969 Dodge Coronet R/T’s were produced with factory A/C
Rick, In 1978 (specifically the late run of 78, fisher ttops), did they ever use any font other than “German” with an SE stripe package?
Restoring a 78 W72, WS6, 4-speed, Fisher T-tops. Doing black, but love the extra striping of the SE’s, just not real fond of the German font.
it is very difficult to get information about how many firebirds were producted 1969 in antwerpen ( gm continental ). i am interested in anything about the 69 250cui ohc sprint version.
best regards from germany
How can I fix a small scratch on the top of my fiberglass lift off hood? Its a repro and its black. Thanks
What were the most common material for OEM car floor mats for e.g. a 1973 Dodge Charger after the moment the car was delivered brand new from the dealer to the US customer? carpet or rubber in America ?
In germany I have the Impression it was rubber, so I assume it was the same in US, right?
The 440 Six pack motor in my car jumps to the passenger side about 1 1/2" when i punch it. Is this normal? I have gotten so many opinions. Right now it looks like its metal to metal where the motor mounts go. Does it need motor mounts, if yes, what? Hard to believe that the previous owner who built the car would just overlook that? Might be hard to answer without seeing the car, but any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Sure sounds like a shot mount! Stock, there was a “roll restraint cable” that prevented the engine from torquing that high if the mount failed.
The made in India part-store mounts fail almost instantly. I have sourced some decent ones:
BCHS is primarily a GM engine speed shop. A customer has blessed us with work on a 1974 Plymouth which appears to be a Duster but has no conclusive model identification. The nameplate on the front fenders contains the words “Commando -V8” but online research suggests Commando was never a Plymouth model name, but an engine type used in Barracudas, which this car is almost certainly not. As the car was purchased as a used dragster and is titled in VA which does not include model names on title/registration paperwork, the customer has not been able to identify the model, and we having some difficulty sourcing some parts we need without conclusively identifying the model. We are hoping you can pin this down for us as the customer has other performance cars which are more in our bailywick and we would like to retain his business. I do have a pic but the Attach Photo function on your website seems not to want to upload it – if you have a direct email, I will send it Thanks! Ed Nace.
It is a Plymouth Scamp, which was a mundane grocery getter. 111” WB, basically Plymouth-badged Dart Swinger, which is in the Chrysler A-body category. Largest engine was 318 2-Bbl.
“Commando” was the name attached to any Plymouth performance engine from approx. 1965 thru 1971.
I want to keep my stock Chrysler 440 exhaust manifolds, and I want to utilize an AFR gauge (obviously with an O2 sensor). Where would be the best location for the O2 bung? Before, or after, the exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe connection? Distance (inches) from the connection?
Unless you want to attempt drilling and tapping an 18mm hole in the manifold, it definitely has to be in the pipe. The closer to the manifold you get it, the better it will work on cold starts, but some guys forego that and put it in the “Y” or “X” (crossover) to get a more accurate average of both banks. Personally, I haven’t found that it makes a whole lot of difference.
Hi, I have a original 63,000 mile 66 Coronet 500 Convertible and I would like to purchase wider steel wheels that will take my factory hubcaps to maintain the stock look. What size/offset can I fit front and back? and where can I get them from?
Also – under the paint code on my tag is 999, what does this mean?
If it is original, it could NOT have hubcaps! See pix…all ’66 Coronet 500s had full wheel covers on 14" steel wheels.
While 8" wide wheels would clear easily in the front, out back, anything over 7" gets very tight. No matter which width you wind up with, the offset should be near zero.
Most guys throw in the towel and opt for larger diameter wheels due to the poor selection of 14" tires. If you want to keep it a pure resto, with repro tires, though, that’s cool. You might also find some 15" Dodge C-body wheel covers that at least look “period correct”.
Remember, too, that spirited driving and wheel covers don’t mix. Zero brake cooling, and loss of covers due to wheel flex. Just sayin’….
Paint code 999 = special order. Basically, anything the buyer wanted!
sundance orange with ivory/white interior
Will the original automatic from the 225 6 cyl bolt up to a 273/318 v8 engine ?
For the few 1967 Dodge Dart GTS models produced in 1967 (V8/383/A-Body), is it safe to assume that the stock battery tray is the same size (4×10×14), as that installed in the 270 and GT models? I am trying to authenticate that component as a part of my restoration. Many Thanks for your input ………. Dennis
The 1970 Barracuda production stats show that under the “Cuda” 340-4bbl 4 speed they made 2460 in the hardtop version. Can you tell me how many were made black/black with A/C?
What type auto trans is in my 1996 Corvette and what is a good street shift kit for it?
I’m looking at buying a 68 Dodge Coronet RT that I found online. Before I visit the seller I’d like to know if there are any other stamped numbers on the car somewhere that would ID it as a real RT besides the dash VIN code. Or should I trust that the dash with VIN is the original dash for that car? Another question would be the front bench seat: I read that all RTs came with bucket seats? Thanks!
1968 Was a transition year for VIN stampings. This was the first year that the VIN was required to be stamped on the engine block, transmission, and rear axle. The data plate (“fender tag” would show the full VIN and the Sales Order number, the second number, would be stamped in at least 2 places, the most visible would be the driver’s side of the radiator yoke.
The R/T VIN must start with “WS23” for a hardtop or WS27 for a rag.
The engine, besides showing the VIN, must be a correctly dated and trimmed 426 Hemi or 440 (depending on VIN)
All had buckets with welded reinforcements for the 4 inner holes (under the carpet. Console or center seat was optional.
Check my eBay deals at moparaction.net
I have a 69 with a 4bbl 350 horse, hideaways, power windows, but otherwise very plain Jane. It’s quite low geared I don’t have a tach, but the fastest I can comfortably cruise at is about 70mph and it’s revving pretty high three grand plus. Would you guess it has a 3.55 or 3.90 rear? Just looking for an opinion. I will have to get it up on a lift in the spring to look for codes. Thanks. Dean Kamloops BC. ps that’s my then 10 year old boy diggin it.
What are were some drawbacks and selling points for the 1981 Pontiac Trans Am?
What is a 71 firebird’s average weight and why does my engine sit more to one side than the other? GM engineering design?
Thank you for your time.
I Have a 1970 Dodge Challenger TA that has a backup light that won’t come on unless I hold the shift handle forward with a little pressure on it. If I disconnect the reverse linkage rod when it is in reverse, it works only if I pull back on the linkage lever about an 1/8 of an inch or so. I I have tried the o-ring style switch and the original style gasket switch. Just seems like the switch does not go into transmission far enough for the lever to activate the switch. What do you recommend. Thanks, Glenn kempf Ferdinand, IN
Im looking at a 69.5’ RR A12 and it has a vinyl top that was ADDED. Can the vinyl top be removed fairly easily? What will the paint look like underneath? Is it going to be a total repaint required?
The cover will peel off fairly easily and probably in one piece. Then the fun starts, especially as we have no idea what type of paint is beneath it (original?) and what type of adhesive was used. You may be able to find a solvent that will remove the glue residue without affecting the paint, but, overall, I’d be planning on a repaint (of the roof) and blending into the quarters (at a minimum).
If it was a duplicate of the factory installation, you’ll also be looking at molding-clip-hole patching (unless you go for a 2-tone paint job), and obtaining a set of non-vinyl drip rail moldings.
The vinyl roof covers trapped moisture, finding some rust underneath it is also quite possible.