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69 Goat Rear End

I have a 69 with a 4bbl 350 horse, hideaways, power windows, but otherwise very plain Jane. It’s quite low geared I don’t have a tach, but the fastest I can comfortably cruise at is about 70mph and it’s revving pretty high three grand plus. Would you guess it has a 3.55 or 3.90 rear? Just looking for an opinion. I will have to get it up on a lift in the spring to look for codes. Thanks. Dean Kamloops BC. ps that’s my then 10 year old boy diggin it.

3.90. Cool Car , Thanks , Rick

over 1 year ago

1969 Dodge Dart 340 4-speed

While test driving this car, clutch pedal stuck to the floor while shifting at around 5500 rpms. As soon as rpms dropped pedal came up, what’s the cause?


I don’t have a crystal ball or X-ray vision, but my best guess is that someone replaced the stock Borg and and Beck “3-finger” clutch with a diaphragm style but failed to remove the overcenter spring and replace it with a return spring (both at the pedal).


over 1 year ago
daniel G Mechanical 1949-1959 Plymouth

1955 plymouth savoy

Richard I hope you answer this I am stuck between a rock an a hard place with this
4.3 260 engine
This car has a different distributor than the original an can not find a rotor button for this aftermarket distributot having a hard time coming up with an old distributor
what distributor can i use with this type of motor, I am a marine engineer by trade i am a ford kind of guy, an My 28 year disabled vetern friend of mine has this savoy in which it was a basket case to start with please help me an my vetern buddy to get his dads car back on the road


I think you’re setting yourself up for lots of extra work. I’d just find a used flathead I-6 Chrysler distributor and freshen it up, tune-up parts are readily available.


over 1 year ago
Rooker Racing Mechanical 1958-1978 Plymouth

Oil pan

I am putting this 440 in a 1974 Road Runner that had a 360. I am using the Shaumaker motor mount adapters. I bought this engine with this odd oil pan on it with hoses that seem to have something to do with the oil filter. What can you tell me about this oil pan and filter set up? Can I use it or do I need to change pans to fit my car. If I need to change pans, which one do I need?



That’s a drag-race (only) oil pan, swinging pickup, and pump setup. That will never clear any stock crossmember. I suspect this engine was built for drag racing, I see the non-streetable Dominator carb, etc., probably has very high compression, crazy cam, loose piston/wall clearances, etc.

Forgetting the “much too racy for the street” aspect for a moment, if you wanna slip this into your ‘74 B-body, you’ll need an OEM (repro) 6-quart steel pan, pickup tube, and internally-fed (stock or HV) oil pump.

Looking at the pix, there’s also the possibility that someone just bolted this stuff onto a tires stock engine just to “flip” it.

Back to reality: The much better option would be:

> Sell that engine and get one closer to a stock 440

- or, even better -

> Sell that one and get or build a stroker 360 (typically, 408 CID) – SO much easier to swap.


almost 2 years ago
Rooker Racing Mechanical 1973-1978 Plymouth

Small block to Big block

Hi, I am wanting to replace the 360 in my 74 Roadrunner with a 440. I thought I needed the big block K-member or an adapter kit but have read on some forums that people just dropped the 440 in with no problems. I also read that some people did have problems with the engine not being properly aligned in the engine bay. What are my options? I am also replacing the 4 speed with a 727.



This reply also applies to ANY ’73-81 B or R-body, LA to B or RB swap.

If you don’t replace the K, the engine will definitely be improperly located leading to a laundry-list of headaches.

Schumacher does offer conversion mounts that will correct this without replacing the K-member (see pix and

Although you didn’t ask, a 4" crank in a 360 gives you a nice, compact 408" engine that bolts in and adds no mass! Otherwise, I’d sure upgrade the suspension and swap to 11.75" front rotors.

Again, free advice: Now’s the time to replace the rubber K isolators with solid aluminum from (see second pix). HUGE handling and body rigidity improvement!


about 2 years ago
Tater's Mechanical 1970-1974 Plymouth - Barracuda

Carb and Manifold

Just started work on a 74 Cuda with a 318 and looking to replace the factory Carb and Manifold. What combo would you recommend?


All OEM manifolds, and, to the best of my knowledge, all currently-available aftermarket aluminum manifolds, are 340/360 intake-port size. Using any of these will result in a port mismatch, giving up some of the gains you’d normally glean from the improved manifolding.

Consider this your golden opportunity to swap on a pair of #308 heads (‘89-’92 360). These are cheap, easy to find, and best production LA heads ever made. And they’re unleaded-ready.


about 2 years ago
demort71 Mechanical 1971-1993 Dodge - 1/2-Ton Pickup

recommended cam specs mild street 360LA

Dear Richard…next year I want to build a new 360LA motor for my 78 Lil Red Express. I would be happy with 350 to 400 HP without stroking it. Any thoughts on the specs of the cams I should be considering to make this a reliable motor with some growl? Thanks!


I’d sure re-think the entire build….a 390 HP crate motor clone (Magnum), with EQ heads, makes and easy 400+. The hydraulic roller is the way to go!

But, if you must, to make 400HP with LA heads, you’ll need something in the vicinity of 280-290 deg. advt duration and 0.500"l lift.


about 2 years ago
Rooker Racing Mechanical 1966-1978 Plymouth


Rick, You mentioned getting my compression ratio under control. I used to run a 1968 340 that the book says had 10.5 to 1 compression. It ran great on 93 octane and I never heard any spark knock. What is the highest CR I can run in that 440 and still be good on 93 octane?



Lots of factors at work here, but a ballpark set of specs would be:

> Aluminum heads: 10.25:1
> cast iron heads: 9.5:1

Any higher than this and the timing would need to be retarded from ideal. (an appropriate spark curve is one of those important factors).

Remember, any detonation that’s audible is VERY bad.


over 2 years ago
mopar383 Mechanical 1967-1969 Plymouth - Barracuda

Adding power steering to a 1968 383 cuda

I have a 1968 barracuda 383 formula S fastback. The car did not come with power steering. Do you know of any way to put power steering in this car without cutting into the vehicle?

Sure. But rather than explain it here, ask Peter Bergman at

The outcome will result in steering as precise as a modern car, and it bolts in and an afternoon.

For the A/C, ask Bouchillon Performance (SC), although that’s not quite as easy or simple.

Mention my name to both suppliers for a 10% surcharge.


over 2 years ago


I am interested in purchasing a 1965 GTO Convertible or Hardtop with a Tri-Power 389 (with or without air RAM Air); with AC; PS; PB to be used in an antique car touring group and general cruising, but no racing.

Top turnpike speeds 85 to 90 MPH.

What suspension should I be looking for with just my wife and I as passengers with sometimes another couple as ride a longs touring the countryside?

Sorry not much help to you on that one

over 2 years ago
Rooker Racing Mechanical 1968-1975 Plymouth - Road Runner

What Clutch set up?

Thanks Richard for the transmission answer. Now that you got me looking into it, what flywheel do I need to use? I noticed a couple different sizes. My set up will be a 1969 440 built pretty good (13 to 1 compression). It is actually an HP block. The car is a 1974 Roadrunner currently with a 360 4 speed. Any other issues I need to consider would be helpful. I plan to use the Shumacher engine mount adapters. Thanks!


You’ll want a 130-tooth ’wheel and a ’70-up aluminum clutch housing.

For the clutch setup, you can take your pick of a 10.95" scalloped Borg and Beck style (3-finger, lots of pedal pressure) or a 10.5" diaphragm such as Centerforce, etc.

If it were my build, I’d swap to the thickest Cometic MLS gaskets and get the CR under control. As it stands, you’ll be looking at 100% 110 octane or severely retarded timing. They both suck!



Old wive’s tale – no such thing as an “HP block”

over 2 years ago
Rooker Racing Mechanical 1970-1980 Dodge

Small block to big block

I have a 360 4 speed and want to drop a 440 in. Can I use the same 4 speed with just a bellhousing switch?



As long as the clutch housing has the same pilot hole diameter as the trans, the swap will work, but remember that all 440s came with the coarse-pitch 18-spline tranny, which is considerably beefier.


over 2 years ago
Tyler's Toys Mechanical 1970-1974 Plymouth - Barracuda


It’s me again, and I was wondering what kind of suspension is in the rear of a 70 barracuda gran coupe


Asymmetrical leaf springs and Oriflow hydraulic shock absorbers.

Despite the seemingly crude design, axle movement was quite ell controlled under most conditions, the exception being cornering on uneven pavement.


over 2 years ago
Tyler's Toys Mechanical 1970-1970 Plymouth - Barracuda

New transmission

What is the original transmission that came in the 1970 Barracuda Gran Coupe? I am working on one and would like to know the best new transmission to put in for racing.


The standard transmission was and A230 three-speed manual. Optional was the A833 4-speed, the A904-A 3-speed automatic (with the 318-2 V8), and the A727-A and A727-B with the larger V8s.


over 2 years ago

Vacuum hose diagram

Where can I find a diagram for my vacuum hoses?

Depending on the year and make, some FSMs and/or OEM parts catalog have emissions/vacuum hose diagrams.

if you think it may be a booster or check valve problem, just temporarily plug the 11/32" hose to the manifold nipple and road test (allow for a bit greater pedal pressure and stopping distance).


almost 3 years ago
Big Block Power Mechanical 1966-1972 Dodge - Charger

72 Charger Power steering box removal

what is the proper procedure to remove a power steering box from a 1972 Charger, 440 with headers.
very tight and looks like it will have to come out the bottom?


Depends on the headers, generally I’ve removed the header and pulled it out the top.

Header removal can be a PITA, depending, again, on brand and type, don’t be surprised if you have to remove the left engine mount screw and raise the engine some.



Lowbuck Mopar tech tips galore, on CD-rom:

almost 3 years ago
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