I picked up a 1949 Chrysler town & country (Woody convertible).
I really like the car!
Some time in its life the flathead 6 was swapped with a 331 HEMI from a 1954 Chrysler (1 X 4BBL). To do this part of the inner fender on the left side was cut away and the exhaust manifold on the right side is extremely close to the frame. The original transmission was provided along with another early “Automatic”.
From a value standpoint side by side with an original restored to the same level which do you think would be worth more?
I have this car it was one of last ordered in 1971 it was ordered with T/A package or option I know cuz antenna hole rear fender it also came with shaker hood, has pierced hole vs cut hole for pull cable where it should be on fire wall plus have a original hood, both holes are pierced can you tell me anything about my car and rarity, sincerely Douglas?
I hate to burst your bubble-
While the T/A was advertised for 1971 (see pix), zero were built. As planned, it was to have a 340 4-Bbl and the same hinged / pinned fiberglass hood as the 1970.Never a shaker hood, never a big block.
The story you were told about shaker vs. fiberglass hood is reversed.
I really have no idea what a “Prestidge” resto is, sorry.
If, somehow, and early prototype ‘71 T/A slipped out, it would have had a very low sequence number and early build date. But, while you can’t prove a negative, I’m here to say there were zero built.
Hi Rick, what sort of things should I be mindful for when considering the purchase of a ‘67-’69 Barracuda?
My interest would be 340/4-spd/fastback – disk brakes would be a bonus. I would consider a 318, automatic, or coupe for the right car.
My driving would be on the twisty backroads of New England (look up “Kancamagus Highway”) were torque is invariably more an asset than horsepower. Any recommendations on upgrades would also be appreciated.
Absolutely without question, choose a car that has (and has has) a little rust as possible. Both rustbuckets (“pre-op”) and Bondo-buckets (“post-op”) are bad news.
Since it sounds like you’re not after a matching-numbers show car, but rather a resto-mod performance car, not much else matters. A 340 swap (360 better, 3G Hemi best), as well as several modern transmissions, suspension upgrades (but stay with T-bars!), wheels, tires, brakes, interior, etc. all contribute to an excellent outcome. This is is all well documented, but all the details would take a book, or the thousands of magazine articles and Q&As penned by your truly.
I have a 68 Road Runner, with standard manual brakes and power steering, I’m considering upgrading to power Disc Brakes on all four corners,and adding rack and pinion steering, my question is with this upgrade will it deter from the value of the car being that it is a numbers matching car?
Thank you for your time.
The short answer: YES.
In more detail: if you’re gonna actually DRIVE the car, a front disc swap is virtually mandatory. See this link for a lowbuck, excellent-performing, stock-component swap:
Of course, any mod on a numbers-matching car without stashing all the original parts safely away is lunacy.
A rear disc swap is much more complex, both because of the tapered roller rear wheel bearings and the parking brake setup.
A good rack and pinion swap kit has yet to be engineered. If you want rack-like steering that bolts in in 2 hours, check the Borgeson steering box swap available from:
We have a cooling problem on our 440 charger running between 200 and 230 and have replaced the coolant flushed the radiator added a 160 thermostat (the car had no thermostat before) and we also have four fans in the radiator. It would be appreciated if you could possibly help us. Thanks
I would need a LOT more info:
> What years is the car?
> Tell me about the radiator: 22, 26, or 28", 2 or 3-row core? OEM brass/copper, or….?
> Fan…solid or fluid drive. Pitch, blade count, how close to radiator? Explain “4 fans”, maybe post some pix….
> Pressure cap rating, and does system hold pressure?
> All air seals present?
> Runs too hot at idle, around town or highway?
> Does it ever actually boil over?
> tell me about ign. timing, etc.
I’m on a mission to replace my Dad’s most beloved car. I only have one photo to go by and want to keep this secret from him, so might have trouble asking for info. from him. I know that it was a 1968 Roadrunner, black interior, bench seats, 383, manual trans., what he called “bronze” paint color, not sure other specs. He’s always mentioned having regretted selling that car and I figured it would be really great to track one down for him. Can you help me identify any details? Picture attached.That’s him in his prom tux, by the way. Helps date the photo!
First off: Road Runner, never Roadrunner!
From the pix and sketchy details you supplied, there’s not much else to tell. I can’t even say if it was a hardtop or coupe. We can see whitewalls, full wheel covers, and that’s about it.
The 383 was the base engine and was in 99% of ‘68s, so that’s easy, and you can bet he would have said “Hemi” if it had been so equipped. The only manual available was 4-speed.
Beyond that, you’d need to either ask another family member what they recall, or stumble on some paperwork. There were lots of options, but most ’68 RRs, esp. coupes, were rather sparsely equipped.
The color, is, indeed, Turbine Bronze Metallic.
I own a 1970 Road Runner with a 383. The bottom row of the fender tag starts with E63 which translates to 383-4 Barrel. The second row from the bottom has E87 which, I believe, translates to “Upper Door Frame: 440-6 Barrel High Performance”. What am I missing? Did I translate these codes correctly?
Rick, I have a 1966 Barracuda with a 273-2 bbl. My dash lights are pretty dim. A guy at a car show told me to change them to the new LED lights. Then another guy told me he just changed his Headlight switch and it made them brighter. Would you know the best trick. Thanks always… Your invaluable…Jeff
The IP dimmer is, as I’m sure you know, built into the headlamp switch. The brightest position is almost fully CCW, just before the courtesy lamps are energized. If the IP lamps are not on, or flicker, in this position, then a new headlamp switch is the cure:
If, however, they are as bight as they’ll go, but still not bright enough for your liking, the problem is either “blackened” bulbs, or that one or more have simply failed. If you can’t remember when they’ve been changed, buy 2 boxes of ’em (#158) and change them all, at that time, take some super fine crocus cloth or steel wool and clean the pc board areas where the sockets make contact.
How many 1971 Ford Torino 429 cj convertibles were made?
I would say you have a pretty rare car then.
That 80 number is somewhat correct. Out of the 1,613 Convertibles for the ’71 model year there were less than 100 which had the 429 Cobra. Exact numbers are a guess because of prototypes, and some discrepancy in the built sheets.
Best way to find out rarity is to track down how many example were finished with that exact trim level. regardless of the engine.
My guess would be not many.
Got any pictures??
How many 1971 Ford Torino 429 cj convertibles were made?
What is the factory front and rear bumper to road measurement?
There was never a spec for this (even if I did know the year, make, and model you are inquiring about!) All that was published was the front suspension height, set by measuring two points on the torsion bar adjuster blade to the floor. Typical Mopars of the ’60s and ’70s were dead level, the front suspension usually lost 1/2" to 3/4" of height in the fist 100 miles (due to torsion bar anchor hex “point” being worn down by road impacts) resulting in a slight rake.
I can’t find the vin number on the car. The owner does have a title that contains a title document number. How can I tell if I have the right title for car? Can you get a vehicle history report on these cars? What should I obtain from owner with purchase of car?
Without the VIN on either A. the car, or B. the title it’s going to be hard to tell.
Next best option would be to dig into the that specific model year transmission code, and engine stamp. These will at least tell you that the correct engine and trans are in place.
Make sure you at least get a bill of sale with the vehicle that clearly states the previous owners knowledge that the car was not stolen, and has not been modified in any way. This way you can not be held liable for anything once you purchase the car.
It’s a tough situation you have there. Good luck!
I recently purchased and rebuilt a 383 for use in a 70 Road Runner.
The car came with a tired 400 out of a later model Mopar.
The exhaust manifolds that came on the 400 are:
Left – 3830800
Right – 4041468
The exhaust manifolds that came on the 383 are:
Left – 2463107
Right – 2532464
Currently I have the exhaust manifolds from the 400 mated to the 383 in the car, but I am contemplating installing the set that came with the 383.
Firstly, do the casting numbers provided indicate that these could be two matching sets? Or do I have Frankenstein pieces here?
Is there a way to tell what type of vehicle either set came from?
Additionally, what are the differences between the two sets?
Would the ones from the 383 have better fitment or airflow?
The manifolds that came on the 383 are the log style, not HP. They flow poorly, I consider them scrap metal.
The ones that came on the 400 are truck manifolds, also scrap metal.
Try to find a set of hi-po manifolds, any year ’67-up, 383, 400, 440. You will know then when you see them, the are obviously much freer flowing. The later ones had more ribbing (for heat rejection and strength), so are a bit heavier, but flow just as well.
I own a 1974 Duster 360 auto trans with bucket seat console interior and a factory hand crank sunroof do you know where to find out how many were made with sunroofs?
Thanks Paul Boersma
The factory never complied data for production with a particular mix of options. For some years, the “take rate” (percentage of cars sold of an individual model line, i.e., Valiant/Duster) was released, mostly as a guide for dealerships to order cars for the next year that would “move”. Unfortunately, I don’t have this data for ’74.
No question, however, that you have a fairly rare car. also the quickest 1974 US car you could buy!
I have a 74 Roadrunner That will have ET Streets. I want to do a little street driving but also take her the Drag Strip every now and then. My question is about the rear end. Currently I have 2. I have a posi 8 1/4 with 4.10 gears and a 8 3/4 with the smaller hog head number with 3.23 gears. I want to run an LSD. I don’t know if the 8 1/4 will handle the 440. The engine currently has 13 to 1 compression but will come down per your recommendation earlier this summer. I have found some Dana rears with 8 lug shafts. Don’t know if I need to go that route. What do you suggest for street use and an occasional pass at the strip?
There’s no question that the 8-1/4" will expire quickly with sticky tires and a 440, esp. in a heavy car. The small-pinion 8-3/4" is also not great.
Your choices come down to:
> An 8-3/4" with the larger pinion bearings and shaft, i.e., 489 or 742 casting number.
> A stock 71-up B-body Dana 60, hard to find and expensive
> A “new” Dana 60, such as the Strange Engineering S60.
> Or, the dark hose, my personal favorite: A ’71-up B-body (not wagon) 9-1/4". These are cheap, very easy to work on, and very strong.
A truck Dana 60 can be cut, the 8-lug axles discarded, narrowed, etc., but the downside is that they have no provision for axle windup limiters (slang: “pinion snubber”).
I found a 1972 cuda , a that has eluded me for 40 years, one be cause of finances and when I had the money I couldn’t find one to save my life. Found one, needs to be restored, hasn’t been registered since 1976, and only has 22, 351 miles. Been sitting in a barn that rotted around it with the Windows down, so it is rough but all there.
My question is, I was told that a black on black cuda is rare. Is it? And that the reason why is, Chrysler inspected them to see if they were straight and perfect enough to be painted black. Is this true?
And it has the v21 hood I’ve been told. Can any one tell me anything about the vin# was told it is an 0X409 car or X4409 car, something like that
4.2% of all 1972 Barracudas were painted TX9 (Formal Black). I would expect the percentage to be slightly higher for ’Cudas. Black was the 12th most popular color, beating out Amber Sherwood Metallic, Winchester Grey Metallic, Spinnaker White, and Mojave Tan Metallic.
The story you have been told is bogus. Chrysler would have gladly built a bazillion black ’72 had dealers (or customers) ordered them.
A ’72 Cuda VIN must begin with BS23X2B, where X represents the engine code, H for 340, G for 318 (late production).
V21 (Performance Hood paint) was optional on all ’72 ’Cudas.
How do you know what Y block engine casting number (code) im looking for to match a 1955 Tbird with a Ford-o-matic. Some search engines show there are a few castings in ’55, but how can I tell which is correct?
few questions please ,
just bought a 1967 cuda convertible, has 340-s on the hood , and a round S on the back left rear,
it also has white seats with black suede seats not sure if factory
ok so doing a vin search its not showing a 340? say its a 273
I am not sure if car is really a S and does it have a 340? did some one put the 340
s on hood , car has 3 speed auto , no tack ?
Without being able to see the car for myself; There are a few things that stick out so far with what you’ve told me.
For the model year 1967 the 273 engine option was the most produced throughout all models. While that means your car most likely came with a 273; we can still check the VIN. If the 5th Digit in the VIN is a ‘D’ or ‘E’ , the car came from factory with a 273 (“D” is a 2-BBL, and “E” is 4-BBL).
However, the part you might not want to here is that for 1967 the Barracuda did not come with the option for a 340. The Formula S packages came with a 383, either a 2 or 4 BBL.
Now here’s where things get tricky. If the 5th digit of the VIN is a “M” it means you have a special order 8-cylinder engine. That’s important because the 340 Small Block technically did come out in 1967, just very late in year. AND there are rumors of a few cars being ordered by Plymouth Insiders outfitted with the 340, but I do not think any of those cars were convertibles.
If you already ran a VIN check stick with what information that gave you.
I used to have a ’66 GTO. Do you know of any way I could get the vin no?