Richard is the any literature that will give me dimensions for a 1964 barracuda body and 273 engine would like to make a 3D model of one?
Richard is the any literature that will give me dimensions for a 1964 barracuda body and 273 engine would like to make a 3D model of one?
single or dual point req’d?
correct distributor part number?
The correct distributor (dual point, yes) will have a 5-sided bare aluminum tag with the Chrysler P/N you quoted, plus the Prestolite number: IBS-4014B.
The housing should be black cast iron. The breaker plate should be ball bearing, with a “litz” ground wire. The original breaker point sets were ventilated on the “break” contact set only, the “make” pair was unventilated.
The cap should be tan alkyd with no vent.
Hi, have 1968 Roadrunner, restored over the last 5 years. 383, 727, 3.55 rear.
Motor all new parts from Summit, flat tops, about 9.5 compression runs on mid grade fuel, mopar 284/484 cam made 397 hp at 5500 rpm on dyno with headers, 600 Holley, Pertronics,. Put in car went with stock HP manifolds and a 750 Eddy. No bottom end, feels lazy, tried to add power brakes- no vacuum 9" at idle .Switched to a 600 Eddy to get more snap.
Many people describe the 383 as the “big block that thinks it’s a small block”…for good reason, the stroke is shorter than many small block V8s.
Still, the 284 deg, 0.484" lift MP cam isn’t THAT radical. Sure it will kill of some low end, but what you’re describing sounds far beyond that.
It could be simply a BAD T/converter (stator clutch slipping). It could be that that cam was installed quite retarded (was the phasing checked?) It could be a too-slow spark curve, even stuck mechanical advance weights, this is easily checked with a timing light. Another easy test is compression, if quite low this could add fuel to my cam-phasing suspicion (or the too-radical cam theory), this will also confirm (or not) that all holes are pulling their weight. I’d expect your engine, built correctly as described, to produce at least 120 PSI.
The FSM describes a way to test the cam phasing without disassembly. If you use the specs from the Hemi section, your numbers should check pretty close to that.
I’d ask you to test the actual stall RPM (stock was typically 2,500-2800), but a low result could point almost any of the possible problems).
The heavens aren’t gonna fix this, you need some Holmes-like detective work.
I’m second owner on a 1968 Plymouth Sports Fury 383 Commando V8. 53k miles. I’ve done nothing to it except tires and oil changes. Have had it for 25 years but I’m thinking she deserves some attention.
I want to either rebuild the existing 2 bbl Carter stock carb or possibly upgrade to a 4bbl system, but not sure where to start.
Attached is a pic of the carb I took off the block yesterday. It’s missing the tag. Only numbers on the body are 6-1887 and 1926. Couldn’t find any matches so they must not be part #’s for the carb I guess (?).
Thanks in advance.
The chose to keep it stock or mod iot is strictly up to you! If you mod it, you’d want some Hi-po exhaust manifolds and 2.5" dual pipes, a good aluminum dual plane manifold, and a cam and valve spring upgrade.
The Carter BBD carb you have now is reliable, responsive, and easy to rebuild, but doesn’t flow a whole lot of air, and airflow = HP.
The OEM carb would have been a BBD-4422S, 4578S, or 4423S. The number would have been on a triangular aluminum tag. No matter, the rebuild kits are the same.
I have a 1966 Satelitte hemi with a 1/13/1966 build date with a engine build date of 1/14/1966….could this be right to be matching #s…I always thought engine must have engine build date before car build date
As you know, there’s no VIN on pre-‘68 engines, and, yes, the engine must be built before the car, or else we’re defying the laws of physics.
Hemis were not built “just in time”, but in batches of a few hundred, so, typically, there’s even more than the usual lag time involved.
I should mention that the build date of the car (on the data plate) is the SCHEDULED build date, it can be off by several days. Still, I think this engine was swapped, it would take at least a week — bare minimum — from foundry casting, then machining, assemble, shipping, then installation at the assembly plant.
Are other parts needed or is it a swap out with the condensor, rotor and points? On a 1971 Valiant slant six stock with points are other parts needed to go with the smp lx812?
This appears to be a rebranded/.reboxed Pertronix system, which is basically standalone, no external components required.
These do work, but you’ll then have a “bastard” system with hard-to-find parts. For my money, a system built to clone an OEM 72-73 Chrysler electronic setup makes more sense.
I know you are more into Trans Ams but thought you might be able to help on a Gto question. wondering if there is any production figures for special order colors ?
have a lead on a pink/mist 1968.
Please point me in the right direction for viewing the wheel options for a 1968 Road Runner. Were 5 spoke chrome wheels an option? Were they Revolution wheels? thanks, M
Hi, I own a 1967 Buick GS400 post coupe, factory 4 speed, AC, Apple Red, Black bucket interior, It’s in # 2 condition. wondering how many were built, and what’s it worth?
What is the best method to break in a new stroker SB?
I’ll assume that this engine is destined for street use.
Most importantly, if the engine has a flat tappet camshaft: It must start instantly. To this end, be sure the carb float bowls are filled, confirm that the ignition system is functioning, static timing is close, squirt some ether into the carb, crank up the idle speed, install the air cleaner, and start ‘er up. Do not allow the RPM to drop below 2,500 for at least 20-30 minutes. Confirm timing while running, do not shut off unless there’s strange noises or low oil pressure.
Then follow the owner’s manual advice, which boils down to:
> No sustained high speeds or RPM
> Vary speed and RPM
> After a few hundred miles, is is OK to roll the throttle to WOT in higher gears, but do not go WOT in low gear until 500 miles.
Scads of lowbuck Mopar tech tips:
Did dodge build/ship any 1969 Coronet R/Ts with a 440 six pack dealer special order
or did dealers install the six pack at the dealership and strengthen the engine
in their shop? Please explain how a 69 Coronet R/T could be bought originally with a 440 six Pack and do you know of any specific incidences when this occurred?
There was nothing to prevent the dealer from doing anything a customer requested, but there were no “trunk kits”, nor was the manifold ever shipped with the carbs, linkage, and fuel lines assembled. The dealer would have had to order each item individually.
1969 440-6 engines also had a different, very special, cam and lifters (low taper).
If anything like this was built on the assembly line, a “one of none” situation, it would still be called out on both VIN and data tags, and broadcast sheet. Remember, however, that the only 440-6 air cleaner base available for ’69 had the large rectangular base to retain the base-to-hood seal for the ’glass hood.
To me, this is 100% bogus.
Thousands of lowbuck Mopar tech tips here:
The fresh air box that is directly over the passenger foot area is showing its age in my 68 Roadrunner. Could you tell me the correct paint to be used to restore it to its original condition? It has a black interior. Any markings of any type that I should be concerned with painting over? None currently visible as it has a lot of surface rust.
Hi Mr. Ehrenberg, I just rebuilt my ’73 mopar LA distributor by following your article “A Spark in Time”. Thanks! Your tips were all spot on.
I am putting 1986 302 casting heads on the 318 in my 1973 van. What is the largest valve lift that I can run without modifying the heads.
As a general rule, since the installed height on stock LA engines is not very generous, with less than 10:1 CR you run into coil bind before V/P interference problems. Still, there’s only one way to know for sure: Check, which I highly recommend. There’s two ways to approach this:
1) Get a pair of weak “checking” valve springs. With the piston about 30 deg. BTDC compression stroke, press down on the valves until they contact the piston, then try again at 2 degree intervals until you’re at 25 deg. ATDC. Look for at least 0.080" clearance, preferably more. A good ruler (machinist’s scale) will be good enough for this unless the measurements prove marginal.
2) Use modelling clay on (oiled) piston heads, spin the engine. If you have hydraulic lifters, one way to keep the lifters from compressing while doing this is to run the oil pump with a drill motor. Pull the head and remove the clay carefully, bisecting it at the thinnest point(s) with a sharp knife, measure the thickness, looking for that same 0.080" minimum.
Remember that near the end of the exhaust stroke, the piston is chasing the valve up into the head, and at the beginning of the intake stroke the intake valve chases the piston down into the cylinder.
A massive colelction of low-buck tech tips can be had here:
Been looking for production numbers on my 70 sublime (FJ5) Challenger R/T with no luck. It’s a very early build with a 383 magnum and auto trans. Non vinyl top and a white bumble bee stripe. I heard not many were built without vinyl tops, but can’t find any numbers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Do you think the value would be higher with the 318 Engine vs. the 273. After reading the answer to my question earlier I was so curious I had to go out to the car and look for the tag in the glove box and could not find it nor the bumper tag. Anyway, in the glove box I did bind a maintenance record book which I had never seen before. After looking in the book I came across an entry which indicated the owner had replace the engine with a rebuilt 318 hence the reason the person who I bought it off of said he thought his brother had said it had a 318 in it. Look forward to your input.
How do I verify if current car specifications (Engine and Transmission) match factory specifications. i.e. current engine and if applicable, transmission # match the factory specification #’s.
The engine has a casting date on the side of the block, and an engine number high on the driver’s side of the block just below the cylinder head (stamped, much smaller), this is visible with the engine installed. It also has an engineering part number (“casting number”) on the side of the block.
Manual transmissions of that era were much harder to identify, but if it is a correct A-body tranny, and has the ball-and-trunnion front U-joint, it is at least in the ballpark.
Automatics had a part number and build date stamped just above the pan rail.
NO WAY would a 318 replace a 273 under warranty. That’s pure bulldong.
Pricing is a constantly moving target with literally hundreds of variables. Let’s say the car is an original 273-4Bbl, and someone replaced it with a 360, but did an excellent job of dressing it to appear as a 273-4 — correct black-wrinkle valve covers, intake manifold, carb, air cleaner, etc. That might bring more $$$ than a real 273-4 that’s hacked up (fenderwell headers, aftermarket aluminum intake manifold, etc.) The no formula for this, cars are worth, end the end, exactly what a buyer is willing to cough up.
Hi Richard I have just purchased a 73 Cuda matching numbers in Mist Green(JF1) in Auto. I was just wondering how many in this color were produced? Cheers for any info you may provide. Have decoded car but not sure how rare if rare at all.
Chrysler never compiled data such as this (or, if they did, they have kept it buried!) They did publish “take rates” for options and colors, mostly this was done as a guide for dealers, to help them decide what to order for inventory for the next gear.
I don’t have those sales rates for ‘73, but for ’72, F3, the closest available color, was on 3.9% of all Barracudas (they didn’t even break out ’Cuda numbers).
I own a 1974 RR with U code 440. It’s silver frost, has power windows, air conditioning and a sunroof. Trying to research production #‘s for a car with these options. I’ve heard 386 GTX rr’s were made in 74, I’ve also heard only
The 386 number is correct.
Chrysler kept no specific tally regarding options or colors. Could it be one of one? Sure. it could also be one of 100, but I doubt that, the sunroof option had a rather low “take” rate.
If you have the broadcast sheet, the “executive” car theory might be proved (or disproved), remembering that many field reps and other middle/lower-management types got “executive” cars as perqs.
I am resoring a 1970 Road runner and want to make it as much original as possible. is there a plave to go to find what a car had on it from its Vin Number?
The VIN will only tell you very basic information, such as body configuration (sedan, HT, or conv), model (price class, (M being Road Runner), engine, model year, assembly plant, and sequence number.
For option, color, and trim info, the fender-apron data plate is the usual source, with the broadcast sheet (under carpet, taped to top of glove box, etc.) being even more comprehensive. If the original owner saved the Monroney label, that’s also a rich source of data.
If neither of these are present, there’s no easy way (on Mopars built after 1967 anyway) to recover this info — Chrysler claims to not have it available.
will a 1972 340 intake fit this 318 with out doing a lot of maching? what do you know about a poor mans 340? 318 with 360 heads intake is this true? the other thing is changing 9" drums to disc brakes so many confussing things on the market baffals the S$%%t out of me to make heads or tails. If you can dial me in to the right way to get some modren brakes on my a body(demon) would be great Thanks
The 340 intake manifold will bolt on with no modifications, but there will be a fairly severe port mismatch. The best way to make HP on a budget would be, as you mention, a 360 head swap. Best / cheapest are 360 heads from an ‘89-’92 Dodge truck or van, casting #308.
Great lowbuck disc swap info here: