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Vacuum hose diagram

Where can I find a diagram for my vacuum hoses?

Depending on the year and make, some FSMs and/or OEM parts catalog have emissions/vacuum hose diagrams.

if you think it may be a booster or check valve problem, just temporarily plug the 11/32" hose to the manifold nipple and road test (allow for a bit greater pedal pressure and stopping distance).


1 day ago

’79 T/A rear seats

Is it possible to put a bench seat in a ‘79 T/A? If so where would you find one?……or if they don’t make them, have you ever seen anyone fabricate one from a different make and model to make it fit?

No have not seen one but would suggest mid to late 70s Lemans seat, thanks, Rick McLaughlin

14 days ago

sources for interior kits

I am going to begin to restore my Mom’s 1979 Trans Am and I am a novice. I was told that to redo the interior (seat covers, carpet, door panels, headliner, dashboard) I should find a kit that includes all of the parts so that everything matches. I can’t find a kit though. What are your thoughts/recommendations?

We deal in the low mile Originals so I have not replace entire interiors , but here are the places I recommend dealing with Firebird Central, Ames , Year One , yes you will have to dye the headliner and Dash to match your door panels, thanks, Rick McLaughlin

14 days ago

1968 Plymouth GTX

Hi Rick,
I need your advice on the interior code S6B. What blue color is correct for all garnish moldings, the dash, console and all other plastic parts? I have a Ditzler interior color chip page with shades of Cobalt and Bahama Blue. There is also a RS 23 written on the build sheet. The existing interior parts are now various shades of blue similar to both of those colors. I would appreciate any information to make these parts qualify for National Judging.

Pete Kramer

I am the Pontiac guy sorry

14 days ago



This depends on condition of your car, a #2 car would ad $5,000-$10,000 , a # 1 car would ad $10,000-$15,000

14 days ago
Shoei's shop General 1972-1974 Dodge - Challenger

Do you know how many of these cars were built

I own a 1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye. It is a U and a 9 code car and has some strange options. The VIN starts JS23H2B******. I am told it is a test car for options the were supposed to be mandated by the US government for the model year 1974.
It has 3 point retractable seat belts on each bucket seat (F). It also has the seat belt ignition interlock system and has the 5mph collapsible bumper (F/R) with the big bumper etts.
Have you heard about these vehicles and would you know how many were built?
Thanks for your time, Shoei


It sure sounds 100% bogus to me (like a ‘74 with a ’72 VIN tag), but, if you’ll post a good pix of the data plate and/or broadcast sheet, I’ll have a look.


25 days ago
Lom's Garage General 1974-1968 Plymouth - Road Runner

Gas Gauge doesn’t work on 69 roadrunner

How much $$ should we take off our price for a non-working gas gauge?


If the temperature gauge works, that proves that the instrument voltage regulator is OK. That leaves three possible problems: (1) Bad sending unit (2) Wiring problem (3) Gauge itself cooked.

Sometimes a shorted sender will cook the gauge.

To be fair, I’d say $200 off the price would be reasonable, a D-I-Y repair would not take more than a few hours and parts would be under $100 (but first, somebody’s gotta troubleshoot it).


25 days ago
Big Block Power Mechanical 1966-1972 Dodge - Charger

72 Charger Power steering box removal

what is the proper procedure to remove a power steering box from a 1972 Charger, 440 with headers.
very tight and looks like it will have to come out the bottom?


Depends on the headers, generally I’ve removed the header and pulled it out the top.

Header removal can be a PITA, depending, again, on brand and type, don’t be surprised if you have to remove the left engine mount screw and raise the engine some.



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26 days ago
Gil's Cuda Garage General 1964-1966 Plymouth - Barracuda

Spec’s and dimensions

Richard is the any literature that will give me dimensions for a 1964 barracuda body and 273 engine would like to make a 3D model of one?


Only the basics were published, wheelbase, tread, length, etc., the FSM does give floor pan measurements also.

Historically, the modelmaking industry always measures up an actual car.


27 days ago
Delusions of Grandeur General 1969-1969 Dodge - Coronet

Single or Dual Point Distributor

Need info:
single or dual point req’d?
correct distributor part number?


The correct distributor (dual point, yes) will have a 5-sided bare aluminum tag with the Chrysler P/N you quoted, plus the Prestolite number: IBS-4014B.

The housing should be black cast iron. The breaker plate should be ball bearing, with a “litz” ground wire. The original breaker point sets were ventilated on the “break” contact set only, the “make” pair was unventilated.

The cap should be tan alkyd with no vent.


27 days ago
B5 Blue My Car 1968-1971 Plymouth - Road Runner

Lazy Roadrunner

Hi, have 1968 Roadrunner, restored over the last 5 years. 383, 727, 3.55 rear.
Motor all new parts from Summit, flat tops, about 9.5 compression runs on mid grade fuel, mopar 284/484 cam made 397 hp at 5500 rpm on dyno with headers, 600 Holley, Pertronics,. Put in car went with stock HP manifolds and a 750 Eddy. No bottom end, feels lazy, tried to add power brakes- no vacuum 9" at idle .Switched to a 600 Eddy to get more snap.


Many people describe the 383 as the “big block that thinks it’s a small block”…for good reason, the stroke is shorter than many small block V8s.

Still, the 284 deg, 0.484" lift MP cam isn’t THAT radical. Sure it will kill of some low end, but what you’re describing sounds far beyond that.

It could be simply a BAD T/converter (stator clutch slipping). It could be that that cam was installed quite retarded (was the phasing checked?) It could be a too-slow spark curve, even stuck mechanical advance weights, this is easily checked with a timing light. Another easy test is compression, if quite low this could add fuel to my cam-phasing suspicion (or the too-radical cam theory), this will also confirm (or not) that all holes are pulling their weight. I’d expect your engine, built correctly as described, to produce at least 120 PSI.

The FSM describes a way to test the cam phasing without disassembly. If you use the specs from the Hemi section, your numbers should check pretty close to that.

I’d ask you to test the actual stall RPM (stock was typically 2,500-2800), but a low result could point almost any of the possible problems).

The heavens aren’t gonna fix this, you need some Holmes-like detective work.


29 days ago
MKitty's Garage Mechanical 1965-1971 Plymouth - Sport Fury

Rebuild stock 2bbl or upgrade to a 4bbl system?

I’m second owner on a 1968 Plymouth Sports Fury 383 Commando V8. 53k miles. I’ve done nothing to it except tires and oil changes. Have had it for 25 years but I’m thinking she deserves some attention.

I want to either rebuild the existing 2 bbl Carter stock carb or possibly upgrade to a 4bbl system, but not sure where to start.

Attached is a pic of the carb I took off the block yesterday. It’s missing the tag. Only numbers on the body are 6-1887 and 1926. Couldn’t find any matches so they must not be part #’s for the carb I guess (?).

Thanks in advance.


The chose to keep it stock or mod iot is strictly up to you! If you mod it, you’d want some Hi-po exhaust manifolds and 2.5" dual pipes, a good aluminum dual plane manifold, and a cam and valve spring upgrade.

The Carter BBD carb you have now is reliable, responsive, and easy to rebuild, but doesn’t flow a whole lot of air, and airflow = HP.

The OEM carb would have been a BBD-4422S, 4578S, or 4423S. The number would have been on a triangular aluminum tag. No matter, the rebuild kits are the same.


about 1 month ago
pdbuck My Car 1966-1967 Plymouth - Satellite

1966 street hemi satellite

I have a 1966 Satelitte hemi with a 1/13/1966 build date with a engine build date of 1/14/1966….could this be right to be matching #s…I always thought engine must have engine build date before car build date


As you know, there’s no VIN on pre-‘68 engines, and, yes, the engine must be built before the car, or else we’re defying the laws of physics.

Hemis were not built “just in time”, but in batches of a few hundred, so, typically, there’s even more than the usual lag time involved.

I should mention that the build date of the car (on the data plate) is the SCHEDULED build date, it can be off by several days. Still, I think this engine was swapped, it would take at least a week — bare minimum — from foundry casting, then machining, assemble, shipping, then installation at the assembly plant.


about 1 month ago
catsnuggles General 1960-1972 Plymouth - Valiant

Ignition conversion kits like standard motor products lx812 and airtex

Are other parts needed or is it a swap out with the condensor, rotor and points? On a 1971 Valiant slant six stock with points are other parts needed to go with the smp lx812?


This appears to be a rebranded/.reboxed Pertronix system, which is basically standalone, no external components required.

These do work, but you’ll then have a “bastard” system with hard-to-find parts. For my money, a system built to clone an OEM 72-73 Chrysler electronic setup makes more sense.


about 1 month ago
Museum Automobilia General 1968-1968 Plymouth - Road Runner

stock wheel options for 1968 road runner

Please point me in the right direction for viewing the wheel options for a 1968 Road Runner. Were 5 spoke chrome wheels an option? Were they Revolution wheels? thanks, M


> All ’68 B-body wheels were steel.

> The only styled steel wheel was the 14 X 5.5" Magnum 500 (chrome)



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about 1 month ago
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