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Minions Mopars General 1969-1969 Plymouth - Road Runner

My 69 roadrunner

Ok I have a 69 roadrunner 383 automatic console car 2 dr coupe it is Silver with a black Vinyl top and green interior I was just wondering if you knew how many Silver roadrunners were produced in 69 ? Let alone one that is silver black and green ?


The factory never compiled data such as what you’re inquiring about. All that is known is this:

1969 Road Runner (not Roadrunner) 383 production:

Coupe A/T – 13,206
HT A/T – 24,351

The color combo you describe was certainly not popular, I am sure production numbers for that combo were quite low, but there’s no way to determine the exact count — despite what you may read elsewhere. My guess — only a guess — maybe a few dozen of each body style.


about 8 hours ago


I have a 68z , the booster is 9078 and the master is 5460346 with WT stamp, the casting number on my cylinder is upside down ???? is it a fake? I have your book and the shots you have are right side up, I have seen tons of pics on web and they are all right side up! it is 1-1/8 bore its in major need of a good cleaning and maybe a kit, but if its not legit I don’t want to spend money on a fake! thanks in advance and thanks for what you and the others on this site do for us little guys!!!!!

Joseph, no worries. It’s real. The 346 was cast both ways. Remember that the casting foundries did not care as long as the number was on the master cylinder.

1 day ago
James' Junkers Performance 1971-2002 Dodge

Best smallblock heads?

I am building a 360 for street use (iron heads). This is on a tight budget! Which heads do you recommend?




360 heads can be broken down into two major categories, LA (1971-‘92) and Magnum (’93-up). There’s a certain amount of interchangeability between the families, but enough stuff must change to make the switch that, for the purposes of this Q&A, we’ll consider them as different animals.

Since you mentioned “budget”, I’ll assume we’re talking street use.

The best LA heads (i.e., 1971-‘92) are unquestionably the #308 casting (’88-92). For all intents and purposes, they are identical to the vaunted “X” castings with two major upgrades:

> The exhaust side is far superior – virtually the equal of the W-2 race head.

> They have hardened intake seats

Now, if, instead, we’re talkin’ Magnum (‘93-02 360) the OEM heads are all the same, and all flow like gangbusters with virtually no work. The problem is that any you’re likely to find will have cracked exhaust seats. They usually don’t leak water until somewhere over 200K+, but few guys want to swap cracked heads ON to a buildup. The solution are the inexpensive EQ (EngineQuest) heads, which make crazy power. I recently bolted a set of stock-valve-size EQs on a junkyard 360 and made over 470 HP, and now EQ is selling them with 2.02" valves!

They are also available with the LA intake bolt pattern, which is what I used.


2 days ago
JJ's Cudas General 1967-1967 Plymouth - Barracuda

1967 Barracuda Convertible

I was wondering if you know production totals for my 1967Formula S 383 Automatic Barracuda Convertible? Starting to do some research on my car. Have been told only 9 produced with this combination but not sure. Thank you for any info you can provide.


I have not seen a believeable breakdown such as you describe, only that 748 383s were built with automatic, all body styles.

Since just under 7% (6.76% actually) of all ’67 Barracuda production was droptop models, you could make a mathematically-slanted guess and say that 50 383 automatic ragtops were built.

As I said, there’s no accurately compiled tally that I’m aware of. Of course, there’s lots of different ways to crunch numbers, some outfits calculate, using some proprietary factor, numbers such as “known to exist” or “remaining”. There’s no real way to prove or disprove these numbers.


3 days ago
Dudes Restorations General 1965-1968 Plymouth - Barracuda

What is it?

Richard, on my 66 Cuda, in the engine compartment on the passenger side fender wall is a small like plastic envelope that holds a credit card. What is it and can I get any information from it? Thank you for your time.


That’s the Certicard. It ties the car to the original owner for warranty purposes, these were the days when data processing was in its infancy and the only way dealers could access the factory’s information was by voice (telephone).

For ‘65 the Certicard was in the glove box, for ’68 it was in the owner’s manual folder. ‘66-’67, it was in the engine compartment, either on the fender apron or the rear of the radiator side panel.

Two lines of text showed the VIN, S.O. , color , interior, trim level, and axle, embossed on the card.

Starting in 1966 the owner’ info and delivery date were added via (Dymo) adhesive tape, which was special Chrysler issue semi-clear label with a Pentastar.


4 days ago
Mopar Jack's My Car 1967-1969 Dodge - Dart

bucket seats for A-body Dart

Richard- just wanted to know what you think would be a era style bucket seat for a Dart/Swinger. I have seen pix in Oct issue of MA of a ‘69 Dart w/Duster (’70) high back buckets & they look like something that may look good. I think I may want a console also. What do you think & would they bolt right in? I have a bench seat now w/4 spd. Also – can I install a pistol grip shifter in an A-body. For some reason they were just meant for B & E bodies………………Thanks Jack


As long as you add the inner seat hole floor pan “load spreader” reinforcements, you can bolt buckets in. And, sure, you could bolt in any ‘70-’76 A-body bucket if you wish. As far as appearance, that’s a personal choice, to me, the adjustable head restraints on the ’69 were more attractive and functional, but that type of opinion and choice is what makes horse racing!

Personally, I think Legendary’s new ‘68-’69 high-bolster sport seat conversions are the cool guy way to go. Looks stock, modern comfort.


4 days ago
Timstoy General 1966-1966 Ford - Mustang

Production Numbers

How many 1966 Mustangs had 6 cylinder compared to 8 cylinder

I would suggest for you to find the absolute correct production number you go to Kevin Marti at Marti Auto Works. He has the database from Ford to do a in depth numbers report. As far as I know, know one else has that information. (There is a minimum cost to get this info from them) phone # on site I believe as well.

Hope this helps!!

4 days ago

Leaf Springs

how to install leaf springs on a 1969 camaro with traction bars

Steve, it’s a fairly easy job. Remove the rear shackle bolts to remove the back end of the spring. You’ll have to remove the floor mounting bracket from the front part of the spring that mounts into the floor of the car. Typically, these bolts will break off when trying to remove them due to corrosion from rust. If so, just chisel the bolt heads off, remove the front spring plate and the leaf spring is out of the car. Install new j-bolts when reinstalling the springs. Once you pull the spring down remove the large bolt that runs through the front spring eye. Installing traction bars is easy. There are two styles, one will mount on the existing t-bolts and u-bolts. I recommend the Competition Engineering bars. They require j-bolts which is a better set up. Just read the instructions and proper torque specs. Good luck!

4 days ago
Wingdwarrior corner General 1969-1969 Ford - Mustang

69 MACH 1 390 4spd

How many “S” code 69 MACH 1 390 4spd w/ sportroof were made in the color Gold ??? THANKS

Kevin Marti at Marti Auto Works has the database from Ford to do a in depth option numbers report. As far as I know, know one else has that information. (There is a minimum cost to get this info from them)

6 days ago
Geminine General 1966-1966 Ford - Mustang

Concord Restore

I want to fix up the first car I ever bought, a 66 Mustang Coupe. I would like to do a lot of the work myself, without screwing it up. Is there a book out there that give you a play by play guide to restore a Mustang. I would like to avoid any pitfalls, such as: doing things in the wrong order, when to and not to cut corners, preferred techniques, etc…

What do you recommend I do to ensure I don’t wast a lot of time and money through trial and error process

A great suggestion I would tell you is join the MCA Mustang Club of America. The website is There are guidelines you can follow. Hope you the best in your restoration. Good Luck!
Bob Perkins

6 days ago
Rb83 Mechanical 1965-1974 Dodge - Coronet

Tachometer ’66 Coronet with ’78 440 cui

Hi Rick

Can you tell me where I have to connect an additional tachometer and how I have to do this?

The car is a 1966 Coronet and the engine is a 1978 440 cui.

Original the car has no tachometer to measure the rotations per minute.




Most tachometers require several connections.

> Chassis ground
> Switched +12VDC (power)
> Illumination variable voltage (not on all tachs)
> RPM (trigger pulse or signal) input

I’ll assume it is this last wire that your are inquiring about. The pulses can be picked up from the negative (minus, “-”) side of the ignition coil on all OEM Chrysler ignition systems, breaker points or electronic.

If you have an aftermarket ignition system, you’ll need to consult the manufacturer. Some have clearly marked tach output connectors, some require adapter boxes, etc.


8 days ago

9745770 Deluxe Steering Wheel

Jerry, was the 9745770 Deluxe Steering Wheel correct only for the ‘67-’68 Camaro, or was it used in other GM products? Thanks. CHPTexas

The N30 deluxe steering wheel was used on other cars but sometimes the cosmetic appearance is different. For example, there are differences in the N30 wheel for the ’67 and ’68 Camaro. Other wheel options were the N34 wood steering wheel which is the nicest of the bunch!

8 days ago
Twisted Monkey Garage Performance 1976-1963 Dodge - Dart

How to give a 225 cid slant six more power

I am trying to keep my original 225 Slant Six in my 67 dart GT convertible, but it’s all stock, and I just blew the head gasket (which is one of many problems). Anyway, I am putting a more solid 225 in the car that will take much less work. However, I would like to keep my original 225 coming out of the car, and build a respectable street car motor out of it. I am thinking of putting a 4bbl on it, but have heard that that takes a lot of extra work compared to a two bbl swap. I’m just looking for suggestions that you think would let a 1967 225 slant put out more horsepower and torque that no one would expect from a 225. Thanks for your input, it is very much appreciated!


The slant six responds well to normal hop-ups, however, before delving too deeply into this, be sure you understand that most mods that increase the power output also require more RPM. Torque X RPM = HP!

A junkyard 2-Bbl swap is surely the easiest place to start, but a 4-BBl swap isn’t all that much more difficult. The best 2-Bbl manifold, however, as well as the current-best 4-Bbl, come from down under:

To make any real power, you need either a split exhaust manifold setup (Dutra), or headers.

A mild cam, some head work, and shaving the head at least 0.060", and you’ll be good to go. How good? That depends. The junkyard 2-Bbl bolt-on might pick you up 10HP, the full boogie 4-bbl, hot cam, header, head porting deal might gain 75 or more.

Have fun!


8 days ago
Twisted Monkey Garage Historical 1967-1967 Dodge - Dart

Production numbers for the 1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible

What were the production numbers for the convertible Dart GT in 67? You guys have the GT production numbers, but not convertible. Also: do you know how many of those are still alive today?


There were 3,729 1967 Dart GT convertibles built. This number includes all engines, all transmissions.

For the US market, the most believable numbers I have are:

6-cylinder (170 & 225) : 1,761
8-cylinder (273-2, 273-4, 383-4) : 1,626
Total: 3,387

If you want a wild guess — there’s no way to know — I’d say maybe 10% of ’em have not been melted down and recycled as Hyundais.

Should yours happen to be a 273-4 or 383, I’d say the number still extant would be single digits. Again, this is only an educated guess!


8 days ago
Geno's Dump My Car 1968-1968 Plymouth - Fury III

68 fury III covert

Keep it stock or modify


From a long-term resale / value point of view, generally, dead-stock wins. The only exception is a car with very mundane options, which you either discreetly up-option, or make into a really exceptional resto-mod.

Example 1: If your Fury is a 318 2-Bbl, manual steering, AM radio car, and you make it appear as a stock 440 Super Commando car, power discs, SG axle, factory cop suspension, etc., some buyers would pay a premium for that.

Example 2: You swap in a 3G Hemi with factory SMPI, modern overdrive automatic, 18" wheels, lowered a bit, etc., some buyers might find that to their liking.

None of this is guaranteed. Neither is the value of the DJIA at the close of trading tomorrow! If I could predict that, I wouldn’t be answering this!


8 days ago

Valve Adjustment on a DZ 302


Do you use the 30-30 valve adjustment procedures that are published on the CRG site? And do you do them cold at .026?

No, usually set at .030". Better vacuum in the engine. The tighter you run the valves you kill vacuum in the engine. 302’s do not have much to begin with. Set at .030 hot. I use “The Racers Method” for setting valves. It’s much easier. Pull the valve covers after you’ve run the engine for a bit warming it up. You’ll need someone to bump the engine over while you watch the valve train. When the exhaust valve starts to open, you set the intake lash. Now, to do the exhaust, you keep bumping the engine over until the intake valve goes just past max lift, when this intake valve starts to close just past max lift, you adjust the lash on the exhaust valve. That simple.

8 days ago
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