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wexxer shop General 1969-1969 Ford - Mustang

69 Boss 302 wheels

I ordered a pair of wheels of ebay for my boss 302. The center of the wheels and spokes were all painted argent??? Did I find myself a legitimate pair?

The ’69 Boss 302 argent Ford wheel PN C9ZZ-1007-E did not have chrome center like the optional C9ZZ-1007-D chrome magnum.

about 21 hours ago
danner squad General 1970-1970 Ford - Mustang

correct lamp

Hey bob,
I am wanting to know what is the absolute correct headlamp for a’70 Mustang?

The correct headlamp for a ’70 Mustang is the Tung-Sol brand, which had letters “TS” embossed at the bottom of the lamp in raised circles.

about 21 hours ago

Trying to Confirm Real 68 RS/SS L78?

The owner informs me that it is legit. Couple of problems. Does not have original engine or any type of documentation. It does however have the original M-22, with all numbers including partial VIN that matches the body. As well as being with in a couple of weeks of cowl tag build date. I know 68’s are hard to document without original engine or build sheet. The owner informs me that the M-22 was only available behind solid lifter engines. I do not know if that is true nor do I know if the L78 was the only solid lifter 396. I thought the L34 396 350 HP, was as well. So the question is ; by having a M-22 is that alone enough to verify it being a true L78 car?

If the stampings are real on the trans, and it’s an M22 then yes, it can only be an L78, L89 or Z28. ’68’s don’t bring the big bucks so if you’re not in love with the car then be very careful about what the resto will cost you. British green is the most common color for the 1968 model year.

2 days ago

Exhaust leak

What is your recommendation on a small header exhaust leak at the head even with new gaskets? A good RTV sealant or have you ever heard of using 2 gaskets. Of course a new set of headers might be the answer but trying not to go there just yet.

Dan, Permatex #101BR, ultra copper. That’s what I use on my Stock Eliminator race car. Good stuff.

2 days ago
Mopar Jack's Mechanical 1962-1989 Dodge

alt short?

Richard you mentioned that the alternator may have a short yet still have the gauge reflect that the alt is charging. Could this have happened due to reason for a harness swap, that the wire to the alternator got cooked. Smoke was coming from the alt & terminal & melted the wire.
Mopar Jack


Most internal alternator failures result in a low or no-charge condition, but if the rotating field develops a shiort to ground, the alternator will go to maximum output — uncontrollably.

Assuming you have a dual field alternator, try this: Disconnect the green wire (I’m hoping that your universal harness uses Chrysler color codes for this), leaving the blue wire connected. Output should drop to zero. If not, the alternator is so much scrap metal.

With a stock wiring harness, a failure such as this will usually pop light bulbs and/or blow the fusible link.


2 days ago
James' Junkers Restoration 1968-1968 Plymouth - GTX

Vapor separator / plumbing hook-up


How does the oddball vapor-breaker filter get plumbed? The car is a ’68 Plymouth GTX.


Jim R.


Since you didn’t specify, I’ll assume it is the usual 440-4 / 580 CFM AVS setup (A102) (if I’m wrong, get back to me).

It is pretty straightforward, the vapor breaker mounts in the usual spot just forward and inboard of the pump and just kinda hangs there. A short hardline connects it to to the pump outlet, a longer one feeds the carb, and a length of 1/4" rubber hose returns the vapor to the tank via the chassis-mounted hardline.

I have added some color to the attached factory engineering drawing. Yellow is the interconnect tube, red is the tube that feeds the carb, green is vapor back to the tank, and blue is raw fuel (under vacuum) from the tank to the pump inlet.


2 days ago
Delusions of Grandeur General 1969-1969 Dodge - Coronet

Road vs Magnum 500 Wheels

’69 Coronet R/T : Road vs Magnum 500 Wheels and Replacement Lug Nuts


Technically, all Mopars had Road Wheels, even a Dart w/ 13" steelies; if it mounted a tire which hit the macadam… At some point, the term was taken to mean a styled wheel w/o wheel cover or hubcap, this could be painted, chrome, or cast!

The 1969 parts book referred to the Magnum 500 as a “chrome wheel”…which it was. These were really junk due to the lack of a center register, generally, dealers and tire shops resorted to on-car balancing, which introduced a whole new set of problems. The was no 15" Magnum 500 that I am aware of, the 1970 C-body offered a chrome wheel that was totally different – multiple very small slots around the perimeter. They were better than wheel covers for brake cooling, but not by much, and they weighed a ton.

Track Paks did not include 15" wheels.

If the car is a resto, stock may be the way to go, although wheels and tires are easily swapped back to stock. You might consider something like 17X9" cast Magnum 500 “lookalikes” (Year One) if you’ll drive it as intended, with modern rubber.

I have driven a less-faithful 17X9" casting on a ’69 B-body (Road Runner), shod with modern rubber (GY F1s) for quite a few years now, this is part of what makes the car truly competitive with BMWs and so on.


3 days ago
Mopar Jack's General 1971-1976 Dodge - Dart

alternator charging

Hi richard – myself & speed shop guy installed a new painless harness#10127 for my ‘71 Dart/Swinger. I did the rear & engine & fr lights. He did the dash & cluster,&gauges. 1- Why is the alternator gauge always charging w/brand new battery. 2- The tach won’t zero out when off & now only the light comes on & needle stuck on 1100 rpm’s(doesn’t work) 3- The radio will only work if the engine is not running & it appears he has the right connections for power & memory. 4-The dome doesn’t work anymore either. There are no blown fuses


The Painless system does away with all the Mopar wiring and converts it to, basically, a GM system. There’s a zillion (maybe two) places where it could be miswired or mis-connected, there’s no way I can possibly diagnose this by “remote control”. My blanket recommendation is to install exact repro harnesses from Year One or Bill Evans.

About all I can do is offer some basic, generic troubleshooting suggestions. Overcharging can be caused a blown regulator, ungrounded regulator, shorted rotor windings in the alternator, or — as I suspect here — a wiring error.

The rest of your maladies are also clearly wiring errors. If you want to stay wed to your generic harness, you’ll simply have to track them down one by one. I doubt you can even use the FSM for troubleshooting, since wiring colors and pinouts are likely no longer stock.

I know this isn’t fun and not what you wanted to hear, but that’s the way it is, sorry.


3 days ago
Delusions of Grandeur General 1969-1969 Dodge - Coronet

’69 Coronet R/T
Road vs Magnum 500 Wheels and Replacement Lug Nuts

14" Road Wheels were standard on the ’69 Coronet R/T

Q1: Was the 15" Road Wheel available as a factory or dealer option?
Q2: Was the 15" Magnum 500 wheel available as a factory or dealer option?
Thought the 15" Magnum 500 was not available until the early ’70s.


The only styled wheel available on ’69 B-bodies (all) were 14X5.5" “Road wheels” (Magnum 500s), a totally inadequate size for any modern rubber and hi-po driving style. 15X6.0" steelies were available as an option on cop cars, for towing, and were standard on Hemis.

The above, of course, doesn’t include the famous K-H “recall” wheels.

All lugs, chrome or otherwise, were 1/2"-20 SAE (UNF) thread, 3/4" hex - as are the ones I peddle, which will fit any Mopar wheel with 1/2" lug stud holes, incl. Magnum, steelies, rallyes, etc., but will require replacement studs on pre’71 cars, which it sounds as if yours has received. Installed, they look very close to stock, but are a better way to go (less chance of pull-thru, esp. on well-used wheels)


3 days ago

69 Z28 Clutch

Jerry I have a stock 69 Z28 I beleive the clutch needs replaced. I have read horror stories about mismatched throwout bearing, clutch fork etc with aftermarket replacement. I need street performance only. Can you recommend clutch kit that would include throwout bearing and verify where I can get the correct fork?

Also car is sagging on rear. Where to purchase new springs for factory original ride height THANKS

We use a nice Hays clutch that is very much like the original Chevrolet clutches that were installed in these cars when new. All of these $150-200 clutches are junk and made in China. We stock the good Hays clutches and I sell the hell out of them. Call me on Friday when I return from my trip. It’s about $400.00 for the kit. Thanks, 410-781-0418. Bob Harris at Camaro Specialties has the correct original GM rear leaf springs, call him at 716-652-7086. Bob is right outside Buffalo, NY.

3 days ago

1969 Camaro Z/28: How to verify matching #’s


I am looking to purchase a ‘69 Z/28 and would like some insight as to what numbers to look for exactly when verifying if the drivetrain is matching #’s. Everyone claims their car is matching #’s but I just want to know exactly what to be able to verify for myself. What are the codes on the block, heads, tranny, rearend, etc.. compared to on the cowl tag? Your help is greatly appreciated!


Mike, the main things to check for at the following: Trim tag, make sure it’s real, the engine stamp, make sure it’s real, check for vin stamp by the oil filter too, trans stamp, vin number should be right next to the assembly stamp and last, the rear axle, passenger’s side axle tube facing forward is the assembly date and ratio code.

3 days ago
Madden's Classic Chevy Muscle General 1963-1974 Plymouth - Barracuda

1966 Barracuda

I bought a 1966 Barracuda and it has Cragar SS wheels with to much positive offset and the tires rub the inside of the fenderwells. I read your earlier answer and I have a followup question. My car is a 273 V8 with automatic. I need to get a set of wheels with a more neutral offset, somewhere around 3.5 inch backspacing, but my question is are all Barracudas 5×4 bolt pattern. Did they make a 5×4.5 for the V8 cars? They parts houses like Summit seem to offer 2 different bolt pattern options. I’m confused. If I go out to measure mine, what exactly am I measuring, between studs or across the faces to opposite studs? I know I should already know this but please help me clear this up in my head. Also, does the 1966 Barracuda have both left and right hand lug nuts?


Here’s some basic facts on Mopar wheels:

> Through 1970, all Mopars had LHT lugs on the left side of the car.

> Through 1972, all A-bodies, even big-blocks, had the 5-on-4" bolt circle

> Through 1972, all A-bodies, even big-blocks, had 7/16" lug studs / nuts

> Starting in 1973, some A-bodies went to the “big car” pattern: 5-on-4.5", 1/2" studs

> Starting in 1969, most Mopars went to “ring mounted” wheels, which distorted brake rotors and drums less. One exception: Magnum 500s.

Measuring wheel stud (“bolt”) patterns on 5-lug wheels has always been troublesome — you can’t just measure between two opposite holes, opposite doesn’t exist!The attached diagram shows one way to do it using a ruler or caliper. There are also available all manner of tools, mostly inexpensive, from a slick caliper-like setup, to plastic discs with punched holes in every pattern, to plastic “dumbbell” sets.

Don’t forget: Any wheel worth a darn will be “hubcentric”, meaning that the center register (or “pilot”) will fit snugly on your brake or axle hubs. Don’t accept any that are not hubcentric!

Measuring back spacing is a slippery slope. The +/- offset system is much more reliable. Almost all Mopar wheels were something close to zero offset. Wildly incorrect offsets lead to fast tire wear from scrub-radius problems, this also makes the car handle poorly. Watch any ricer with a Honda, 10" wide wheels, 8" negative offset. See how slowly he drives?

The cheapest decent factory wheel for your car would be 1970-’72 A-body 14X5.5" rallyes.

What most pre-‘72 A-body guys do it bite the bullet and go big bolt pattern and updated disc brakes. Ask if you’d like to know more about that.


4 days ago
Bergstaten store General 1970-1970 Plymouth - 'Cuda

Production numbers

How many, 1970 Cuda 2dr ht 440 sixpack, 4-speed pistol grip, Dana 60 4:10, yellow with black top were built?


All that is known is that 902 440-6 4-speed ‘Cudas were built, all had Dana 60 rear axles. No records, however, were kept regarding individual option numbers. If you are asking for a guess, I’d say maybe a dozen or so with the combination you have described.

To track down a particular car, you need to start with at least one of two bits of information: The VIN, or the name of the person you sold it to. With the VIN, you might be able to find the export data (from Swedish customs), or import (US Customs, now known as “US Customs and Border Protection”) and go from there. Or, sometimes, a simple Google search of a VIN can turn up surprising results.

The second approach would involve tracking down your buyer and then following wherever that leads. You have to play detective, there’s no shortcuts, sorry.


6 days ago
TiKa's Restoration 1960-1961 Dodge - Dart

Changing the window sweeper 1960 Dodge Dart

How to remove the indoor frame


This is a bit before my time, but I did look in the factory service manual – which says nothing! I fared only slight better in the parts book, which shows the door’s mechanisms OK but contains no graphics concerning trim.

From memory (and using logic), I believe it slides up. Try tapping gently using a small block of wood.


6 days ago
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