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kerms place General 1969-1969 Dodge - Charger

1969 charger 500 383 mag 4 speed hurst XJ code with white Vinal top

I’ve been looking for info on the 500 without the nose or wing and can hardly find a lot would very much appreciate to find out like rarity worth excetora info is the greatest weapon for doin it right in restoring it I just don’t want to have it hacked up it’s was our family car growing up now handed down to me and I have a son to hand it down to someday thank you for your time and info

Jason-

yeah, it is very rare, in fact, it is one of none built!

The “base” ‘69 Charger 500, of which the build count was approx. 430-450 were built (VIN L) and the Hemis (VIN J, approx. 120 built), the total of both powertrains therefore exceeded NASCAR’s 500-unit requirement.

There were, as I said, ZERO were built with 383s (G or H 5th VIN digit).

Rick

3 days ago
Jon's Mopar Haven General 1966-1972 Dodge - Charger

Best Brakes for 69 Charger

I have a 1969 Charger RT/SE with manual drum brakes. I can recall one of the last times I drove it 25 years ago, I jammed on the brakes and did a 360 deg spin. I’m getting mixed reviews on drum vs disk brakes. I need to go through the entire system, so this would be the time to upgrade. It is a 440 Automatic not numbers matching.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon-

This is actually a very complex subject. Reams have been written about it, including by yours truly:

http://tinyurl.com/discswap

There are three primary (and several secondary) factors at play here, and all are intertwined, I’ll discuss the three biggies very briefly:

> Fade resistance
> Proportioning
> Modulation

The stock drums usually had ample fade resistance for at least one high-speed stop, it was only during extended “spirited” driving that they faded. They sure sucked when wet, however.

Proportioning (front/rear balance) was given short shrift in the ’60s and ’70s, most factory cars would lock the rear brakes early, virtually guaranteeing a spin. An adjustable valve and smaller rear wheel cylinders are almost always needed, whether you stay drum-drum or upgrade to disc-drum.

Modulation — the ability to threshold brake, just short of the lockup point (see http://www.moparaction.com/extra/Driving/Driving.html ) — was nearly impossible on the OEM Bendix duo-servo type brakes our Mopars were equipped with. This is an artifact of their design, which was intended to make stopping a 4,000 lb. car without a power booster feasible. The fixes (crutches, really) involve using a less-aggressive lining material, shortening the front shoe’s lining material, etc.The final solution is 4-wheel discs.

As I said, this reply is just a quickie broad-brush primer. Nonetheless, if you follow exactly the swap details outlined in the first web link above, you’ll have greatly improved brakes without breaking the bank.

Rick

16 days ago

Sports top.

I have a 1976 Firebird Esprite with a vinyl top. I hear it was called a Sports top and only came out in ‘68 ’74 and the late model ’76s. I have no idea if this is true, but I have the proof in my back yard. I can’t even find a picture on Google of another Firebird with a vinyl top, except the ‘68 convertible. I’m a huge Firebird fanatic and would love to learn more about this! attached is a picture of me and my Firebird for reference.

Yes Vinyl top was available on your car

29 days ago

engine temperature and engine speed

Hi Rick

In my 1966 Coronet works an 1978 440cui engine.

Can you tell me what the engine temperature °F should be, if the temperature gauge is at point (1), market in the picture?

I think this is a good operating temperature for the engine isn’t it?

What is the maximum engine temperature °F market at point (2)?

What is normally the maximum engine speed of the 440cui?

Thanks

Regards

Reto

I am the Pontiac guy. but temp should be little less than half , I believe

29 days ago

1970 Pontiac Esprit

Rick: Did Pontiac put a 400 motor in an Esprit? I’m looking to buy one and can’t find any documentation that it was even an option back then. Can’t get the block code from the car. The VIN tag indicates a V-8, but my research shows that it was the 350 in these cars…. HELP….

No Esprit came with 400 to my knowledge

29 days ago

WHAT IS IT?

I’M THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF A 1970 GTO 455 THAT I BOUGHT OFF THE DEALER’S LOT IN MAY 1970. I AM CONSTANTLY BEING TOLD THAT THIS WAS A “CATALINA” ENGINE MADE FOR THE BIG CARS. THE BUILD SHEET REFERS TO A 455HO MOTOR AND A BUILD DATE 10-69. A MOTOR REBUILD DURING THE 1980’S REVEALED FORGED CONECTING RODS, HIGH PREASURE OIL PUMP, WINDAGE TRAY, & CHROME RINGS. ADDITIONALLY, 455HO DECALS WERE ON THE HOOD SCOOPS AND UNDERNEATH THE GTO DECAL ON THE TRUNK. THE CAR WAS LIGHTLY OPTIONED WITH ONLY A RADIO, 4 SPEED AND BUCKETS. REAR IS A 3.55.

Very Nice car and it IS an HO

29 days ago

67 firebird

just picked up a 1967 firebird convertible trim tag says o code paint black top white interior its been repainted a long time ago to red. going to go over the car but wanting to if this color is rare and how many were made this way thanks

Yes that is a Rare and Very Sharp color combo , but No production #s Available on Colors

29 days ago
Ron's 70 Charger SE General 1970-1974 Dodge - Charger

1970 Charger Charging System

Richard,
Owner of a 1970 Charger SE. 383 four barrel. Any advantage to a one wire alterntor as opposed to the stock charging system and how do you wire one? I have a 100AMP alternator and thinking of going that direction. Also considering using a voltage meter instead of the stock amp meter. Understand that there may have been issues with the AMP meter on Mopar’s?
Thanks!!
Ron

Ron-

One wire alternators are notoriously lousy because they are unable to accurately adjust the charging voltage in response to ambient temperature changes. They tend to cook batteries!

It wasn’t so much the ammeter that was a problem, as much as the bulkhead connectors, which all charging current passed through. If you convert to a voltmeter you can connect the ammeter output stud directly to the starter relay stud (with a maxifuse or fuse link) and prevent that problem. If you, however, greatly increase the alternator’s maximum output, be sure in use proportionally heavier gauge wiring throughout.

RIck

about 1 month ago
Quality Motorcar of Woodland Hills General 1968-1975 Plymouth - Road Runner

’71 Road Runner

What is the significance and meaning of “RM23” on a 1971 Road Runner 383 coupe’s VIN?

Michael-

RM23 is simply the VIN prefix for a Road Runner 2-door hardtop. Finding this proves that the car is not a rebadged Satellite (or Belvedere, in earlier years).

It breaks down…

R = Mid-size Plymouth line
M = Medium price class (i.e., Road Runner)
2 – 2 doors
3 – Hardtop body style

Now, if the next letter was V (440-6) or R (426-8 Hemi) you’d have a real find.

Finding the VIN on major components (Engine block, rear axle, transmission) increases the car’s value.

RIck

Rick

about 1 month ago

How do I find what my GTO looked like out of the factory?

I recently purchased my first GTO and I have found pretty much everything I need to know about it. I also found out that it came from the factory with a midnight green body and a limelight green painted top. I cant seem to find any pictures of a GTO with this particular paint code. Is there anywhere you know of that could get me this image?

Yes I know the color combo , will try to find you a pic , Rick

about 1 month ago
65GoldCuda General 1964-1966 Plymouth - Barracuda

Factory Production Statistics for my 65 Barracuda

How can I find out how many 1965 Gold Barracudas with gold interior with the 3 speed automatic were produced? I have looked at all kinds of websites on Feder Tag decoding, and I have learned a lot of valuable info. I know that about 4,000 total cars of the 65,000 made were V8’s with a 3 speed auto, is there any way to tell how many were made with my color scheme? My fender tag reads as follows:
SO#=310, (I think that means it was produced March 10, 1965?) Number: 00031 (I think that means it was #31 of about 65,000 made?) BDY:V89 (I think that means Valiant/Baracudda V8). TRM: P4Y (pretty sure that means Gold Bucket Seat Interior) and Paint is AA1 A (pretty sure that means gold interior).

I am also sure I do NOT have a Formula S Comando 273 car (because it did not have that badging nor did it have the factory tach on the left side of the dash).

Matt-

The short answer: You can’t.

Expanded: Chrysler simply never tabulated or recorded such data. Years later, they did publish “option take percentages” (for the prior MY, intended as an ordering guide for dealership sales managers), but, even then, ascertaining if your car, is, say “one of 3 built with such-and-such combo” is not possible.

The sequence number is the last 6 digits of the VIN, starting with 100001 or 500001 for the first car. The SO number has no bearing on the production sequence, was, as the acronym implies, simply a Sales Order number.

The tachometer, code 468, was optional on all 1965 8-cylinder Valiant and Barracuda models, I do not recall it as being included with the the Formula S package, but I can’t swear to that.

Formula S confirmation (or, not): On the data plate “ABC” line, under the AB you should find “31” for the 273 4bbl 235hp engine, and below the C should be a “2” for the formula “S” package.

Rick

about 1 month ago
Rees's Garage General 1967-1976 Dodge - Dart

front and rear suspension

what is the correct colours for suspension 69 dart

Fraser-

The attached pix should answer most of your questions (this is Dave Walden’s Mopar Nats-winning Valiant, one of the finest A-bodies I have ever seen). Torsion bars were always dipped in glossy black epoxy paint. Lower control arms were either (pot luck) black enamel or cosmoline dipped. rear leafs were semi-gloss black enamel. Most other suspension components were black phosphate and oil, the closest you’ll come with shaker cans is charcoal satin grey.

Rick

about 1 month ago
Dan's Restorations Restoration 1969-1969 Dodge - Super Bee

6pak Hood / Hood Pin Installation

Where is the best source to obtain information on the location and installation of the 4 hood pins for the 6 pak fiberglass hood? ie. dimentions, hardware location, etc.

Dan-

I’ll assume you’re referring to a reproduction hood that is supplied sans holes and bezels. The way I do it I guess you’d call “reverse engineering”. I make up a set of cheap-O dummy pins (cut-down cheap bolts) about 3/4" shorter than OEM, ground to a razor sharp point instead of a bull-nose. Drop the hood on with the pins bolted in place, keep adjusting the pins upwards until they make marks on the underside of the hood. Drill small holes from the bottom side, in the center of the marked area, I typically use a 3/16" bit for this. Drop the hood back on and you’ll be able to visually check the alignment. Since the final hole can be much larger (1" or more), you’ll have plenty of room to “move” the center of the hole before drilling to final size and riveting the bezels on.

Rick

about 1 month ago
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