Barrett Jackson Florida
Barrett Jackson Florida
Which year and engine combination was the best performing Trans Am?
Can you tell me who can restore my date coded voltage regulator & horn relay? This is for my 68 L78
My 1968 CHEVELLE 396 SS Convertible is all original and I want to keep it that way so if I have the engine rebuilt will it still be all original? Also it came with Madrid vinal uphostry. Can I change it to leather without sacreficin the original status? And what if I add ghost flames or hood locks? Would it depreciate in value for not being 100 percent original?
Bunny, you have a rare car there. Not many ‘68 Chevelle SS396 cars were built. And yours is a convertible to boot!!I would keep that car as original as possible. You can rebuild the engine, that does not hurt the value as long as it’s rebuilt to stock factory specs. We specialize in vintage engine rebuilding and restoration. Check out our web site, www.z28camaro.com. Call us any time.
HOW MANY 1968 CHEVELLE 396 SS Convertibles were manufactored and how many are left?
Bunny, according to the stats I have, 3,102 ’68 Chevelle convertibles were produced. GM did not tell you how many convertibles were built with the 396 engine. Only the total convertible production. What I can also tell you is that 45,553 L35 396-325hp cars were built, 12,481 L34 396-350hp cars were built and 4,751 L78 396-375hp cars were built.
What are the correct part numbers for the Bellhousing and flywheel for a 67 Z28?
Hi! Hoping to be able to have a recent idea of what my car is worth. 1966 Chevy Nova II SS. 4 Door. Straight 6. No power steering. All stock. Original paint and exterior. 23,000 original miles. 3Rd owner.
I’m interested in a ’69 rs/ss black 396 camaro that is going through at an auction in Greensboro, NC this weekend (GAA Classic Cars). I have the VIN# for the car and was wondering if you have ever come across the car or have any record of it in your data base. VIN:124379N662846. Hoping to identify if it is what they claim it is before making the trip.
Ben, not in my data base. I have not done the car certification on this vehicle. I suggest that you make sure the trim tag is real. 75% of all trim tags on black cars are fakes. People change the trim tag out to change the color. Black is very rare! You also want to make sure the engine and drive train is original to the car. Good luck!
What is a 1969 GTO Judge with PHS docs worth non matching motor in very good condition
what is a 1969 GTO Judge non matching motor worth?
I am installing a 426 wedge with a Tremec 5 speed into a 65 Satellite and when the engine is sitting in the mounts it does not fit square to the fire wall. The tail shaft of the tranny is off center and pointing a few degrees to the left. The car was originally equipped with a 361 and torque flight so I am using the orginal hard mounts with new rubber isloators. I purchased the conversion kit from American Powertrain so it came with a new cross member and tranny mount and it appears the bolt holes on both will line up with the frame and transmision. Should there be a noticeable angle to the engine in relation to the tunnel?
The short answer: NO.
On virtually all RWD muscle-era Mopars, the engine and transmission are offset 1.25" towards the passenger side. This provides room for the steering gear as well as dovetailing perfectly with the pinion offset (vis-a-vis the ring gear) in the rear axle. But, despite this offset, the centerline of the crankshaft, transmission’s mainshaft, and propshaft should closely parallel the chassis rails, and the tranny’s extension housing should be centered in the floor pan tunnel.
As far as what’s causing this, it is difficult to say from here, but something’s bent, tweaked, or incorrect.
I need to replace the fuel tank sending unit in my big block Biscayne. As usual I’m having difficulty locating an NOS part. What is your experience with after-market units? I hear they’re not too reliable to say the least.
What would the starter part number be for this April build 67 Z28?
I would lIke your opinion on what would be a good big block to swap to between 454 ci and 598 ci and what a good 4 speed and/or 5 speed transmission for those engines would be.
Patrick, bigger is always better for street engines. I would go with the 598. Depending on which transmission you want to run, that will determine what ring and pinion to run. Many to choose from, Jerico, Doug Nash, G-Force, etc. At the end of the day, when you’re in 5th gear, you want to be cruising between 2000-2400 rpm. That would be ideal.
On an engine build date for a 67 z28 of 04-13 were the engines trimmed
On the same date with distributor?m Car is 4 d located a distributor
Dated 7 d 27
I’m pretty sure your going to say its wrong. Just want to confirm
I always wondered, since i have yet to see or hear, can you put intake manifold
on a 383 and also a 6 pack ? Same thing with a 318, can you put 340 heads on a smaller 318, and also a 6 pack on it too ? Never seen it done, and since you can’t find any used 340’s per se, can you ?
Sure, although it was never OEM, both swaps are technically feasible.
For the 383 and 400 B engine, use Edelbrock’s DP6B (P/N 2470) manifold and 440 carbs. A bit of tuning will be required.
On a 318, you’d use the 340 manifold and carbs, but, unless you’re using later 318-4 heads (really 360 heads), there will be some port mismatch, and the engine will be over-carbureted and tricky to tune. Really, a swap to a complete 360 is a much better way to go.
Realize that, today, the 6-BBl setup is just eye candy. Modern large-plenum 1 X 4-BBl manifolds make more power.
I wnated to give you some insight as to the many times I have lost sleep at night trying to figure out the issues to my fuse that would blow when I put my foot on the break. This may help some of your fans. As soon as i would put a fuse into the fuse box, and then apply the brakes, my fuse would blow. Long story short, and on many of my older muscle cars (only Mopar made), it 100% of the time turned out to be at the back of the car, in tail light assembly, and where the bulb fits into the bulb housing, or the male part of the fitting. If I am describing the actual proper names to these parts. I have found that over time, the moisture gets into the bottom of the bulb housing and the entire bottom would become a one sided circuit. Oh hell, just clean the bulb and the bottom of the bulb housing and it will work and not blow a fuse. I am running out of letters to say what I want. Just clean both ends up. Works every time for me guy’s…
Yes, and the front parking lamp sockets, which are exposed to road splash, were even worse – I eventually began packing the sockets with grease. Unfortunately, this doesn’t help reader Gallo — his fuse blows immediately even without brake application.
Since your data plate is coded 61 for engine, it is (or was originally) a 383 2-Bbl. (270 HP). “3” for the tranny indicates code 393, 4-speed manual. There were 343 cars so equipped.
The paint code does indicate 8, bright blue metallic, so it is either original or repainted in the original color.
The “2 tone paint” (lower argent) was standard on ’67 Satellites.
taking interior back to like new original and updating electrical…
having problems finding parts…thoughts?
I guess I’m not quite sure I understand. If you’re making the interior “like new”, what are you updating?
Many of the electrical components can be had from replacement parts houses such as rockauto.com . Several suppliers have replacement or restored oddball rocker switchgear, radios, and so on. The turn signal switch, once a real problem, is available from tinyurl.com/sterno . The typical resto suppliers have “electrical trim” items such as lenses and so forth, and there’s at least two places that will either restore the entire I.P, to as-new, or provide upgrades. The IVR, another chronic prolem, should be updated with the solid state version from rt-eng.com .
Rick, Thanks for the help finding the fuse for the break/dome/etc lights on my ’70 Road Runner. It was blown. I must have a short somewhere because everytime I put a new fuse in it blows immediately. Any idea where I should be looking?
Still breaking, huh? OK, but we’ll work on your brake lamps ;-[>
Since you told me (via e-mail) that the fuse blows even without actuating the brake, park, or turn signal lamps, I am able to narrow it down some. But….
First, however, we need a troubleshooting method. The simplest way to arrange this is to scrounge up a simple small 12v bulb and socket, and rig up two alligator clip leads to it, as in the photo. (If you’re cheap like me, you can even save a socket and solder the wires right to the bulb).
Remove the fuse and connect the test lamp’s clips to the fusebox clips for that fuse. Disconnect the dome lamp pinswitch for the driver’s door (you can do this by unscrewing the switch, pulling it out, and disconnected and taping the pigtail / pin plug). Have the passenger door closed.
With no brake application and all switches off, the lamp should be extinguished. if not, there’s a short someplace (as we already know in your case).
Begin by unplugging connectors, I’d start with the headlamp switch. The cigar lighter and key-in buzzer are on the same fuse circuit so disconnect them, too (you disconnect the buzzer circuit totally by unplugging the ignition switch connector (8 pin flat) at the base of the steering column.)
Once you localize the offending circuit, you can track down the short itself, you may have to remove lugs from connectors one at a time to accomplish this, or use an ohmmeter to look for the dead short to ground.
Having the FSM’s wiring diagram handy is virtually a must!