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Cancritters Skunkworks Historical 1970-1971 Plymouth - Sport Fury

1971 Plymouth fury GT

Gday..got a good one for ya :O)…adding a 3×2 to my 71 sport fury gt/super commando

am looking for any and all info regarding the discontinuation of the 3×2 for 71 GT
most of all am looking for any pics of Mopar PN 3573-645 this can be found on pg 23-544 of 70-71 mopar parts catalogue…
this part is the T decal of GT on front hood..however includes the 6bbl designation as well..would like to find a pic or drawing showing the T with 6bbl so l can recreate as per Plymouth desighns for my 71 GT

Thanx Kindly
Critter

Critter-

I do have an massive collection of factory graphics (blueprints), but none for C-bodies, plus, these never showed the design or specs for components parts – this info was always on the ’print for each component, which I have few of.

The ones I do have (for tape stripes, etc.) are almost always just a sketch with the notation “vendor to scale to fit…” or some such.

So…I’d contact today’s vendor — Performance Car Graphics — and put them to work!

Rick

1 minute ago

Steering Column Identification

Can you help me identify a steering column? I was told the column was from a 1981 Camaro. Is there some type of identification number located on the column to help identification? The tilt column is an automatic on the column and currently in a street rod. Thanks

Keith, there should be a seven or eight digit number on the steering column for the GM part number. Once you locate that you can call one of the local Chevrolet dealers in your area and they should be able to help you identify the application for the column. If it was a paper tag for the part number and it’s no longer there, that may make it more difficult to identify what you have. Good luck!

about 5 hours ago
Girraffe Performance 1967-1969 Plymouth - Barracuda

Best wheel and tire size for drag radials on A body Barracuda

I want to get drag radials for track use on my 1967 Barracuda. I have two related questions.
Can I safely use the current fornt radial tires with a rear pair of drag radials?
What is your recommendation for rear wheel size and offset as well as tire size to maximize performance without creating clearance problems or other road driving safety issues?

Mark-

Yes, in fact, drag radials were conceived for exactly the situation and useage you present. They’ll be fine.

8" wide wheels, with zero offset, present no problems, in 15", 16", or 17" diameter. 9" width also clears but things start to get cozy.

Section widths of 225mm are fine, 245 will also clear, but also gets pretty tight. I have seen 255 work but it is too close my comfort in my view.

Overall diameter should not go much over 25" if you’ll be using full suspension travel (cornering, loads, potholes).

I’m assuming that you’re using a stock-width axle housing and 4.5" bolt circle axles.

Rick

about 6 hours ago

Brake Booster

Jerry, I found an 8515 brake booster with a Julian date of either 103 or 105 in my parts shed. What all did the 8515 come on. Rare or not rare to find? Thanks. CHPTexas

Good find Ken. The #8515 booster came on any Camaro with J52 brakes in 1967, including the Z28 Camaro! It’s dated the 103rd or 105th day of 1967.

2 days ago
Hollands Hands Historical 1969-1969 Plymouth

Production numbers for my 1969 Barracuda

I have a 1969 Notchback Barracuda 340S Formula S with air conditioning. Is there any way of determining. How many of these were produced? Also it seems that when ordered they optioned for a clock instead of a tachometer. Fender tag says it.
E55 D21 BH23 P9B258160
F8 F8 H4X X0 115 162222
A53 A62 B41 B51 C11 H51
J25 M21 R11 V78 END
I really think these combinations are rare. Car needs a lot of cosmetic work but is very straight. Runs well does not smoke and all original.

Roy-

The short answer: No. All that’s known is that 331 were sold with 4-speeds. Ivy green metallic was a fairly popular color, still, I’m sure the production numbers with your option combo were certainly down into the lower double digit range.

Rick

2 days ago

Original Firebird Engine and starter

In a 68 / 69 Pontiac Firebird 350, was the original color of the engine blue or orange? How do I tell if it was from a Pontiac or Chevy?

JJ on a Chevy Engine the Water pump sets out from the timing cover, on a Pontiac its in the water pump housing, this is one way, there is a 2 letter code below right head on Pontiac block also, the paint is Blue on Pontiac, Orange on Chevy, thanks for the question, Rick McLaughlin

3 days ago
Wingdwarrior corner General 1970-1970 Plymouth - Superbird

SuperBird colors

How many of each color was made ???

David-

As with all other Mopars, no “breakdown” record such as this were tabulated or kept. In addition, there’s at least a modicum of proof that some ’Birds were built with supposedly “not available” colors.

Anyway, by number-crunching the percentages of colors sold on less-unique Plymouth B-bodies, we arrive at these guesstimates:

B5 - 271
999 (37D) – 97 (Corp. blue)
Y1 -
445
J5 — 213
K2 — 310
V2 — 271
W1 — 329

Numbers are rounded and inexact, besides being only an educated guess.

Rick

4 days ago

1970 Camaro RS SS Fender Emblem color options (if any)

My 1970 Camaro RS SS car came from the factory color code 75-75 that I understand to be Cranberry Red with Black Stripes (Does not appear that this car had a vinyl top). I have seen a few pictures of 1970 SS cars with black SS fender emblems but the vast majority were white. Were black SS fender emblems an OEM option in 1970 or just white? Thank you. Ted

Ted, I think the emblems you are talking about were the service replacements available from GM. GM had a knack of changing parts after the production run. Don’t know why but they did.

4 days ago

Tuxedo black

How many fake 1969 tuxedo black Z28s have you come across on certifications? Is nice that we have one of the true 10 10 Z’s. If I ever get it finished.

And yes, on Chicago. Kept hearing how great the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals were and decided to take the ’67 Z28 this year. Hopefully, he weather cooperates for the drive. You going to go? Thanks. CHPTexas

Dozens of fake black trim tags. Very common at the auction houses when you see a black car. 75% of the time they have a fake trim tag. Good luck in Chicago and bring your snow shovel.

5 days ago
Byron Gray 67 Dart GT General 1963-1976 Dodge - Dart

Engine oil

What is the preferred engine oil to use in a 1967 dodge dart gt?

Byron-

There’s a whole host of factors that would determine the “ideal” oil to use, making this a simple question with a complex answer.

A ‘67 Dart could have anything from a 170 cube slant six to a 383-4 engine, but, surprisingly, the displacement has little effect on the oil I’d recommend.

The “theory” behind viscosity selection has also changed quite a bit in the last 40-50 years. It was thought “back in the day” that a heavy viscosity oil was needed for high performance protection, that view has gradually fallen by the wayside. Except for a very few specialized cases, the heaviest oil I’d use on a street-driven car is 10W40. In anything but a southern summer, 10W30 would be “it”. I’d not go thinner, even though lighter oils do build initial pressure more quickly, the fact remains that carbureted engines pollute and dilute the oil more than modern SMPI setups; the heavier viscosity helps protect the bottom end. Unless we’re talking an Alaskan or Canadian winter, avoid anything lighter. And drag race engines, which see higher RPM and greater specific outputs, now use even far lighter oils, mainly to reduce windage losses. Windage is real nasty — picture the crankshaft’s counterweights slamming into the oil at high RPM: This friction heats the oil and actually (mechanically) breaks it down. Light oils reduce this effect significantly.

Synthetics offer some advantages, whether these are worth the premium price changed is debatable. They thicken less in lower temperatures, insuring fast pressure build-up on that cold start. They also break down far less at very high temperatures.

Personally, I use the cheapest synthetic 10W30 in just about everything. Currently, that translates to Wal-Mart house brand (SuperTech) full synthetic 5-quart jugs.

Remember, however, that description of oil dilution. Carbureted car’s should have shorter drain intervals than modern cars. If the car is regularly warmed up and “hammered”, and the carburetor has stock calibration (not over-rich), you might go 3,000 miles — no more. If you have a pig-rich aftermarket carb, and only use the car to cruise 10 miles to the local cruise-in, I’d revert to time-based drain intervals: 90 days maximum.

One tip that’s helped me achieve long life from all my engines: Always pre-fill the filter with oil before installation.

Rick

6 days ago
James' Junkers Restoration 1966-1971 Dodge - Charger

Correct Battery – ’69 Charger

I see several reproduction batteries for my Charger. I see two sizes and three cap colors. Which is correct?

Thanks,

Jimmy

James-

The two sizes were Group 24 and 27. The physical difference was length, the Gr. 24 was about 10-3/4" long, while the 27 was about 12-1/2".

All group 27s were 70 Amp-hours and had red fill caps. The Gr. 24 was available in green cap (48 AH) and Yellow (59 AH).

Generally, 2-Bbl small blocks used the 48 AH, 340s and 383s (as well as earlier 361 and later 400) used the 59 AH, and 440s and Hemis used the Gr. 27 (70 AH), but in virtually all cases, the larger batteries were optional, as was a heat shield on fleet models (cop, taxi). although this was a seldom-ordered upgrade. The broadcast sheet would tell the tale for sure, but if you don’t have that, the aforementioned application guide would be correct 97% of the time.

Rick

7 days ago

67 Camaro RS SS 396 trim tag

Jerry , would you prefer I email the trim tag photo to you directly rather than posting online?

You can post here. Lustine was a big dealer right outside Wash D.C. Sold a lot of hi-po cars. ZL-1’s and ‘67 Z28’s. If your car was sold there your original title records and MSO on the car will be on file with the MVA in Maryland. They are in Glen Burnie. It’s worth the time and trouble to get the paperwork. Will have the original owners name and address. You may even get lucky and find him. That will lead to more history on the car. If your trim tag has a 4P, 4L, 4N or 4K on the tag then it was a factory built high performance car. The big local tracks in this area were Capital Raceway in Crofton, MD and Aquasco Dragway in Brandywine, MD. That’s where this car may have raced when it was new. There were thousands in this area back in the day.

7 days ago
TMG Racing General 1967-1976 Dodge - Dart

74 dart fried fuseable link

What is best fix to replace fuseable link on my dart, never had to deal with one before.

Tom-

As with any fuse, a “blown” one isn’t the cause of trouble, it is an indication OF trouble. Even if you were to make up an ammeter bypass, that, too, needs to be fused, either with a fusible link or Maxifuse. Having no protection whatsoever in the charging circuit is asking for real trouble (picture, in your mind’s eye, firemen with axes and hoses attacking your baby!)

If you have made some recent wiring / electrical change that may have caused the FL to blow, I suggest re-thinking / re-engineering the “improvement”.

Swapping the FL is a cinch, takes all of about one minute, in unscrews from the relay end and unclips at the bulkhead connector. Re-pops are available, or you can make your own (16 ga.). As I intimated above, these days, guys who really “use” their cars often convert to the more modern Maxifuse setup, which should be rated no more than 10A greater than your alternator’s maximum capacity, which, if there have been no wiring upgrades, should be no larger than 50 Amperes.

Rick

7 days ago
James' Junkers Historical 1968-1970 Dodge - Charger

Tic-Toc-Tach

Should my “new” 69 Charger have a tach?

Jimmy-

The Tic-Toc-Tach (concentric clock and tachometer) was optional (Code N95). Without that, the clock had exactly what you describe, a huge sweep second hand where the tach needle would otherwise reside. At a glance, they do appear very similar.

Rick

8 days ago
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